Dual pane windows....

Polyurethane foam, sold as "Great stuff" will be waterproof and add structural integrity.

Just make sure it is for windows as that type has a lower pressure threshold so won't push things out of place.

Polyurethane foam, sold as "Great stuff" will be waterproof and add structural integrity.

bb_94401 wrote:
If you are going to be winter camping when the temperature is less than 20F and if you don't like living in a dark cave, double pane windows keep in more heat and allow natural light to come inside. Our 2001 TC has double pane windows, as well as large double pane skylights and double pane vent covers. No seal failures yet in any of them.

When the temperatures are lower still, reflectix layers covering the windows to keep more heat in. The reflectix on the table window, skylights and vents are removed when we aren't sleeping.

For temperatures dropping below 0F at night, we made the table window triple pane ala Photomike's post. Can sit comfortably next to the window and watch the night sky. Cuts down on wind blowing through the window track drains and crevices when there is a blizzard outside (although they can be taped shut from the outside). Reflectix added when we go to bed.

While there are lots of holes in a TC, most people will find and plug/seal them over time. Thermal pane windows are part of that consideration, or put another way, will the batteries last the night, how many days before the propane runs out and is it warm enough inside the TC to be comfortable and run full utilities for the length of stay you are planning.

Speaking of holes, when manufacturers fit windows into a camper, they are not a close tolerance fit around the edges. While double panes won't have condensation on the windows, the aluminum window frame will still have condensation / ice, despite having a "thermal break in the window frame. Fix by removing the inside trim and sealing up the gaps between the sides of the window and frame opening with minimally expanding foam.

Having a vapor barrier around the windows reduces the condensation that results in the window rotting out mentioned above. You can use the clear heat shrink window film on the inside to make disposable storm windows for windows you want to see out of. For windows you don't look out a removable tape or Dap Peel 'N Stick caulking can seal the window as well.

Have you looked behind the trim on your vents recently? Check out the various winter mods threads for the usual suspects (AC, cord box, propane box, range vent and others).

Seriously, just get the double pane windows if you are camping 4 seasons.

Thanks so much for this post!!!

Never thought to remove the inside trim around the windows ;)



Thinking this should do the trick, now gotta do 4 more

I prefer Dual pane windows.

If you are going to be winter camping when the temperature is less than 20F and if you don't like living in a dark cave, double pane windows keep in more heat and allow natural light to come inside. Our 2001 TC has double pane windows, as well as large double pane skylights and double pane vent covers. No seal failures yet in any of them.

When the temperatures are lower still, reflectix layers covering the windows to keep more heat in. The reflectix on the table window, skylights and vents are removed when we aren't sleeping.

For temperatures dropping below 0F at night, we made the table window triple pane ala Photomike's post. Can sit comfortably next to the window and watch the night sky. Cuts down on wind blowing through the window track drains and crevices when there is a blizzard outside (although they can be taped shut from the outside). Reflectix added when we go to bed.

While there are lots of holes in a TC, most people will find and plug/seal them over time. Thermal pane windows are part of that consideration, or put another way, will the batteries last the night, how many days before the propane runs out and is it warm enough inside the TC to be comfortable and run full utilities for the length of stay you are planning.

Speaking of holes, when manufacturers fit windows into a camper, they are not a close tolerance fit around the edges. While double panes won't have condensation on the windows, the aluminum window frame will still have condensation / ice, despite having a "thermal break in the window frame. Fix by removing the inside trim and sealing up the gaps between the sides of the window and frame opening with minimally expanding foam.

Having a vapor barrier around the windows reduces the condensation that results in the window rotting out mentioned above. You can use the clear heat shrink window film on the inside to make disposable storm windows for windows you want to see out of. For windows you don't look out a removable tape or Dap Peel 'N Stick caulking can seal the window as well.

Have you looked behind the trim on your vents recently? Check out the various winter mods threads for the usual suspects (AC, cord box, propane box, range vent and others).

Seriously, just get the double pane windows if you are camping 4 seasons.

Makes sense if you can save on storage and have the unit close to home at the same time. Easier to get in and go if you are not going to get it each time.

So far the windows are doing good. Love the fact that I get zero wind / air in them.

Eugarps wrote:

Those are the ones I’m looking at in the Winnebago Travato 59GL I’m considering. Why a van? Potential issues with the HOA in the condo I’ll be buying. I’d considered thought about a Tiger to for their off road capability but the HOA won’t allow those. They’re to RV looking. A TC would work, if I just park there for loading and unloading but I’d have to find storage for the TC offsite.

Anyway, the Seitz windows on the van seem pretty trouble free and aren’t quite so bubble like. I’m sure they don’t have the insulating qualities of a true dual pane but they won’t fog up from leak inducing frame flex.

Thanks,

Bill

Regardless..of the swap and I get the reason for the clear on the bottom..I really improved the insulating of the windows in the door. It was pretty easy to do...It is an easy one day project.

Photomike wrote:
I had single panes in my TCer and the motor home. I made storm windows for both and that worked but was hard to open the windows without a lot of hassle. I also made inserts that worked and were easier when I wanted to open my windows.

In the van I went dual pane windows but they are acrylic and not sliders. So far I do like. Have the built in screen and shade.




To see more pictures of the window go to my blog

Photomike,

Those are the ones I’m looking at in the Winnebago Travato 59GL I’m considering. Why a van? Potential issues with the HOA in the condo I’ll be buying. I’d considered thought about a Tiger to for their off road capability but the HOA won’t allow those. They’re to RV looking. A TC would work, if I just park there for loading and unloading but I’d have to find storage for the TC offsite.

Anyway, the Seitz windows on the van seem pretty trouble free and aren’t quite so bubble like. I’m sure they don’t have the insulating qualities of a true dual pane but they won’t fog up from leak inducing frame flex.

Thanks,

Bill

The clear pane is on the bottom just so you can see the trailer. Whether that is a good reason or not depends on your use. For me, I tow a trailer which cannot be seen in the side mirrors at all, but can be seen in the rear view through the pickup window, the dual pane camper front window, and the door lower clear pane. Without that if the trailer parted company I wouldn't know until the next rest stop.....

My camper (BF 10.4) came with an insulated cover that snaps over the lower pane when it is not needed for visibility. If you never tow, then a door without the lower pane at all would be preferable.

Just for grins, and I'm sure it will work out in your head,...I have a dual pane door conversion in the university sticky. It worked out really well using high end acrylic on the inside and glass on the outside..the conversion was a game changer for a door..flat out the builder doors are built wrong and should just come this way. My beef was the clear pane was on the bottom... you expect to see though the clear panel though the truck and TC that was at the floor?, It does not happen especially when pulling a trailer.. what does it matter?...and it had privacy glass on the top.. WHY?. Wrap your head around this..it is an 11.5. I can't see trough the door while driving...but someone can walk up and see right into the camper at ground level?..It just did not make sense. So I put the privacy glass at the floor and the clear at the top so I could see out at the door when I am inside and look out or down...does that make better sense? Go look it up.