Gravel rv pad?

Pinesman the cost of 3 yards of concrete was only $300. I built the forms and friends helped when I poured the concrete. I had to build a stem wall on one side and did a monopour. Gravel would not have been much cheaper. I then ordered a Carolina Carport and had a level surface to install with solid anchor points.

My 5th wheel is 31' long but I made the level part of my packed gravel pad large enough to accommodate a 36' x 18' carport. Due to the contours of my land, on one end the gravel is probably 18" deep tapered back to nothing on the other end. The sides and high end are tapered down to ground level. I would rather spend the majority of my money putting a roof over the top rather than putting concrete below the trailer

suprz wrote:
How deep would a gravel RV pad need to be for a 32ft long X 10ft wide pad for my 14000 lbs Rv

You might to go longer now if you can and maybe 12 or wider. Our concrete o
Pad is 20x45, maybe a bigger rig someday.
If you have to go gravel, in my area iron ore gravel is used then maybe milling or limestone topi . Remember, concrete is pretty permenant & low maintinance

I've just always poured a concrete pad and was done with it. A person would only have to put in a couple of strips of concrete for the tires to cut down cost and put gravel in between for aesthetics.

JRscooby wrote:


Hauling it for decades, it's all "gravel". Most make the mistake of using gravel that has the fines screened out. Clean rock, without the dust and other fines will constantly shift, never compact. It will also let water drain thru, soaking the sub-grade, and shade it so it is slow to dry.

^^^This^^^.
Just a consumer, but if I ever use gravel for anything other than drainage, I use Crusher Run (all sizes, including dust). Has worked for me for decades.

Dave H M wrote:
Listen to Rob. Gravel is not the way to go.

Maybe everyone just calls any kind of crushed rock "gravel" i don't know.

Hauling it for decades, it's all "gravel". Most make the mistake of using gravel that has the fines screened out. Clean rock, without the dust and other fines will constantly shift, never compact. It will also let water drain thru, soaking the sub-grade, and shade it so it is slow to dry.

Listen to Rob. Gravel is not the way to go.

Maybe everyone just calls any kind of crushed rock "gravel" i don't know.

RV parking pad? Shoot grade,scrape sod off. Stack timbers on 3 sides to keep rock in place. Put 6-8 inches of 2 inch clean down. (Left over from another job). Then fill to level with at least 4 inches of used shoulder rock (Was paid to haul away from a widening job) Made sure I was level side to side, but front/back slopes enough to drain. Scattered enough half inch clean over so the dust does not track in, but not enough to roll under tires.
Then I bolted a 4X4 and a 2X4 to a pair of mud flaps, and laid then where I want the tires. The boards are spaced so I back over the 2X, and against the 4X, she's chocked.
Built the pad in mid '90s, and the only thing I have done is add to the thin spread of gravel between the pad and pad I park the TV on. Gravel drive is not legal, so I just use enough to not spin on wet grass. Just mow it short a few days before leave.

I got recycled asphalt millings, about 4 inches deep and compacted by driving my diesel truck over it a couple times, overlapping. It drains well, packs well and is doing a great job. If I had the time and equipment I would have compacted it better. Other than that, its fantastic. The recycled millings tend to stick to the tires a little more than gravel, so I have to sweep some loose millings off the asphalt and back into the pad every once in a while.

I agree w/ talking to someone local who is familiar w/ your soil types.

In our case, we used 4-5" of asphalt roadbase, used a bobcat to spread it then smash it down as best it could, then drove the big truck over it back and forth many many times.

We used peagravel in our dog run area and I wish we had used larger rocks. The gravel just moves around too much.