Hensley brake controller

There is a difference in approach and presentation of our differing opinions...

I will NOT press others that mine is the best and that all others are junk

A discussion is my methodology and up to those in the discussion and
listening to make up their own minds. Based on whatever knowledge and/or
reference they might seek in others or informational vehicles (books,
magazines, internet, etc)

Have stated why I'll never go with any MC PSI sensed and repeat that I'll
not open up my TV's braking system for this. There are other attributes
that is not for me.

Like their engineering and fastidiousness of both design and instruction

A cantilevered brake line without support is not a good design and
others with better common sense have resolved it with a simple tie
wrap.

Or not instructing to bleed down to each wheel where that line is
modified.

Or that it only senses 'one' brake line, where by law mandating that
all vehicles shall have 'TWO' brake lines in case one becomes compromised
somehow. If that one line a MC sensed trailer brake controller is
compromised...then there will be no trailer brakes...whereas my P3
system will still have full trailer braking as long as my brake pedal
switch system is working

Here are a couple links found in seconds on HOW2 replace a MC and is
no different than opening up one line to install a stub line.

Notice that they both instruct to bleed down to each wheel after
bench bleeding the MC and installing it on the vehicle.

AutoMD: How to Replace a Brake Master Cylinder

21
Locate the brake bleeder valve on your passenger side rear brake caliper or wheel cylinder.


26
Repeat steps 22 through 25 in the following order: Left rear wheel, right front wheel, left front wheel.

carsdirect: Replacing a Faulty Brake Master Cylinder

Filling and Bleeding the Master Cylinder

Now you want to add DOT 3 brake fluid to the new master. Initially, you can fill the master all the way to the top. Now, you will want to press the brakes until you feel the brake pedal stiffen. At this point, you want to

gravity bleed the brakes by leaving the bleeder screw on each caliper loose for about 15 minutes

. Now you want to do a complete bleed. For this process you will need a friend to help you. Start by having your friend pump the brakes until stiff and hold them. While you friend holds the brakes, you loosen the bleeder screw. Do this process until nothing but brake fluid flows from the bleeder screw on each caliper.

If any mechanic does not believe in bleeding down to the wheel after
breaking open any brake line...then I'll not allow that one to touch
any of my vehicles. No understanding the laws of physics of air in
a hydraulic brake line.







In case you think I've never done any work on, or even engineered and
designed braking systems...

Here is the MC bench bleeder I made up after finding my old set missing
and the store bought stuff cr@p...have made up several sets for buddies
in the automotive business and even their friends. Much better than
'most' store bought, plastic tubing, sets

Been over 10 years since my last MC replacement and am noodling that
for the 2000 Odyssey, as it is acting up. A new setup but for the
single tank that it has. Easy enough and just a bit of design and
off the shelf brake line tubing and a mandrel bender.







Have also designed many industrial disc brake systems with the largest
a 48" dia setup with an electric 5HP hydraulic pump.







The wonderful attributes of how a MC PSI sensed also applies to how
my P3 works and I even have more positive attributes that a MC PSI
sensed CAN NOT duplicate or have as features

Mine does stop as one

No jerking or banging

Trailer leads the TV in braking



Here are some that a MC PSI sensed CAN NOT do...unless they too
have TV brake pedal switch that is switched with an approx 0.01" movement
of the pedal

I can stop the whole setup (TV and trailer) without ever developing
MC PSI. Can a MaxBrake do that?

I can nail the brakes to have both TV and trailer brakes go max and
then feather the TV's brakes to ZERO all the while keeping the trailer
brakes at whatever the controller's inertia sensor reports as the
deceleration rate is




Glad you guys love our MaxBrake, as it works for you where the others
have not, but consider it a disservice to others who may not know much
on how braking systems work when statements like: "all others are junk", etc

I am glad that my P3 works for me and will not tell others that yours
is junk. Just information I used to derive my opinion...and I do not
need to drive one to understand how it works. Automation and process
controls are part of my background and can noodle how they work from
just a logic diagram.

Bottom line for me on so many not liking whatever is that they normally
have their system NOT setup right