I have a Prodigy brake control on my truck and having a problem with it. I tried calling the company to ask some questions and they won't talk to you if you don't have the prof of purchase. I have had it probably 15 years, so there is no way. When towing my travel trailer it seems to work fine. When I attach the 7 way plug the light comes on showing the C that it is hooked up on the unit under the dash, and the numbers come up when applying the brake showing the level of brake application. I also have a large work trailer that has always worked before, but I was hauling some material yesterday, and there was no response on the control when the plug was attached. I had never tested it before, but when I checked the pin in the plug it did not show any charge coming back to the plug on the truck 7 way when I had my wife pull the lever on. I went back and hooked it up to the travel trailer and it is still working fine on it. The wires look fine in the work trailer 7 way plug, and back to the brakes at the wheels. Shouldn't there be a charge at the truck pin in the 7 way plug when the brakes are applied? I'm just trying to figure out how this works and where to go to get this working again. Thanks.Mike

Does that work trailer have a battery that needs to be charged? If it's just the brake-away battery, is it wired to be charged? If you do have a battery on that work trailer, it may be a simple prong connection problem. The prongs tend to loosen up over the years on the plug. I had to replace the one on my fifth wheel because it was just wore out.

The " they won't talk to you if you don't have the prof of purchase." comment I do find interesting. I called them when my trailer magnet was buzzing without touching anything, no warranty or proof of purchase. They were VERY helpful and said to unplug the unit for a few seconds and re plug. I did so and all was well.I would give this a try just for CHITZ N Giggles.

OK the controller does not know what you put in the 7 pin connector. If your RV trailer works, the controller works. I think you have a problem with the construction trailer.

The plug on the work trailer looks good, and it really doesn't get that much use. I just watched a video on the Prodigy use, and it said that without the trailer on it when you turn on the key, it should show a NC, then two dots. It used to do that, but it doesn't now. I have noticed that when first starting out with the travel trailer I have been getting some weird messages on the controller, but I would push the brake lever over, and it would straighten up. I did buy it new, so I may have gotten the warranty on it, I can't remember yesterday, let alone what I did 15 years ago. I may just call them and go in as if I had my ducks in a row. Thanks.Mike

Take a picture of the receipt...as many receipts are printed on thermo paper, which fades over timeI then put the receipt in the manual. Along with writing the date, where, $$, and serial number on the manual

Prodigy Brake Control ? | Good Sam Community

18 Replies

jerem0621
Explorer II
May 06, 2020
I had a P2 on my last TV. It was okay. Not a bad controller at all. I’m really a Tekonsha Voyager fan. I like how the Voyager works much better and once set up it’s much smoother and more simple than any other controller I have owned. I just bought another Voyager for my latest TV and it works great with our new TT. After thousands of miles I like the simple little light telling me what’s going on.

Thanks!

Jeremiah
CharlesinGA
Explorer
May 02, 2020
P3 has memory for four trailers, max brake level, number if axkes, etc, so you can get a trailer set up, save the info and not have to go thru that on the trailer later on if you are switching back and forth.

Charles
time2roll
Nomad
Apr 30, 2020
mike-uswest wrote:
I checked the wires in the work trailer plug, and everything looked good. The hookup end of the plug was not looking as clean, so I will flush it out and dry it well. More things to play with. Thanks.

Mike
Get out your clamp-on DC ammeter and verify each wheel is getting 3 amps when the controller is applied manually.
(any excuse to get a new tool)
deltabravo
Nomad
Apr 30, 2020
time2roll wrote:
If your RV trailer works, the controller works. I think you have a problem with the construction trailer.

Ditto.

You've already troubleshot the problem by testing the brake controller with another trailer, the TT, so that rules out the problem being the brake controller, so the problem is the construction trailer.
mike-uswest
Explorer II
Apr 24, 2020
I checked the wires in the work trailer plug, and everything looked good. The hookup end of the plug was not looking as clean, so I will flush it out and dry it well. More things to play with. Thanks.

Mike
blt2ski
Moderator
Apr 24, 2020
I agreeing with those that think it is the trailer issue, not prodigy issue.
I've had and owned multiple trailers in the past. If one is working, next is not, 99%of the time, the trailer connection is usually the issue. Dirt grime or equal on trailer plug us usually issue. Sometimes the wire connections in plug.......check the trailer first.

Marty
carringb
Explorer
Apr 24, 2020
I also found the P3 to be less sensitive to minor faults, and also a little smarter with the Boost feature. It's a worthwhile upgrade.

That said... Make sure the back of the connector on the truck isn't full of crud. If it is, and it's wet, that can pass enough current between the contacts to cause intermittent faults.
Bipeflier
Explorer
Apr 24, 2020
Your problem is in the work trailer, NOT THE CONTROLER.
RCMAN46
Explorer
Apr 21, 2020
"Simply unplug P2 from wiring harness and plug in P3, simple as that!!!"

Unfortunately not entirely true. The P3 uses a different mounting bracket than the P2 but changing the brackets should not be very difficult.

The P3 has better diagnostics than the P2. I like the current reading the P3 gives you. If you have the standard electric brakes as most of us have the current delivered with most 4 wheel brakes systems is 1 amp for each volt applied. From this a broken wheel magnet wire can be detected.

I check my current reading vs voltage with the manual lever before my trips each morning along with all of my TPMS readings.
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Apr 21, 2020
mike-uswest wrote:
Thanks for the answers, what is there about the P3 that makes it better? If I go back to another P2, it is a 5 minute job to take one out and put the new one in. It has worked fine for years.

Mike

I have owned BOTH, I hated the P2 with having to reset the boost depending on whether you were driving slowly thru a campground or on the highway.

P3 is much better all around.

Simply unplug P2 from wiring harness and plug in P3, simple as that!!!