Hi everyone. Hoping for some clarification, guidance and ultimately some peace of mind on my hitch set up.I've read the set up procedure but seem to be running into a few problems.2011 Ford Expedition EL, 2008 Keystone Cougar 29BHSI don't know the brand of the hitch, but it has round bars.Questions:1) When measuring the TT for levelness can you use the floor just inside the door, as you would when setting up to camp?2) How important is it for the bars to be parallel to the frame and/or ground?I need to go through the process again using a couple of different tactics, but from what I've been able to do I've gotten the TT level. However, in order to put a decent amount of tension on the bars and actually get some WD going the bars are angled up quite a bit. It seems as though I have to work really hard to get them latched up. Often times I'll just use the jack to hold the weight until I get the snapped up.I'm also wondering what is "acceptable" for the back end to dip? My best efforts have gotten it to about 1" dip on the back and the front is up about 1/4". That being said though, I need to measure again before using the bars to compare the two. So far I'm only comparing the unhitched height.Thanks for any help you have and please ask me questions. I know I'm not all that clear.

without the brand/model # or pics, it might not get you all the info you need.there are a lot of different round bar WDH's out there.

1/4 inch rise in the front is within spec.. don't worry about the rear, its good too. Now, how many chain links do you have between the spring bar and the snap up bracket? This should be a MINIMUM of 5 links under tension. At least for a lot of round bar instructions I have read. If you are less than five links then you may need to add a washer or two to the hitch head and get a bit more hitch head angle. A side shot picture of everything all hitched up would be great!thanks!Jeremiah

the bars, if memory doesn't fail me again, the bars should be parallel to the tongue frame. you can go to etrailer on utube and watch how it is done.

Look here. :) If you are using a round bar hitch, you need to have a minimum of 5 links under tension between the snap-up hooks and the bars. Your bars are pointing upwards which means that you need to put a washer or two more on the pin in the hitch head (or whatever type of adjustment it requires) to tilt it back towards the trailer a bit. This will level out the bars which should run parallel to the A frame when hooked up. Doing this will probably require that you let out the chain about one link - which is good - to keep the weight distribution about the same. The reason for the bars being parallel to the frame (round bar systems) is so they don't crash into the frame or snap-ups when making turns as they move back and forth. It also keeps the tension on the chains even in both directions during turns. The reason for the 5 link minimum is to keep the chains from dragging the snap-ups on the A frame during turns and the tension even.Barney

Hitch set up help | Good Sam Community

48 Replies

hawkeye-08
Explorer III
Apr 14, 2015
I think mine is less than that, but would guess you are fine. I like to be able to not worry about my fridge running when stopped for a few minutes taking a break (when parked on level area). I don't know how far is too much, I just got mine as close to level (parallel to ground) as I could without being nose high. If you have the nose high, you risk sway increases.
acritzer
Explorer II
Apr 14, 2015
It isn't totally loaded...but the only thing missing would be a few changes of clothes and food in the fridge (which I think is close to the axel?).

Do you think a 2" difference from front to back is the most you should run with? What I'm trying to find out is how much "a little nose down is ok" is OK.
hawkeye-08
Explorer III
Apr 14, 2015
Are you loaded for camping? That is a variable often left out when doing the hitch setup at first. After being loaded, you might find you need to fine tune a bit. Your trailer is almost 2" different front to back, not a bad place to give it a try. You might find you need to go up one more notch on hitch, but just based on numbers above, you seem to have a good starting point.
acritzer
Explorer II
Apr 13, 2015
Any final comments for me? Sorry...told you I was neurotic!
acritzer
Explorer II
Apr 12, 2015
Next update. I leveled the trailer using the frame.
Front-24 1/2"
Back-24 1/2"

TV
Front-36 1/16
Back- 36 2/16

After this the hitch was higher up than before. I moved the ball up one notch...bringing it close to the new hitch height.
Hooked everything up. 6 Links

Trailer-
Front- 23 2/16
Back- 25

TV
Front 36 5/16
Back 34 10/16

Questions-
1) How do the TV numbers look?
2) Is the nose down amount acceptable for the trailer? Eye ball test looks very close to level. In fact, the level from the door now shows level.

Thanks!!
acritzer
Explorer II
Apr 10, 2015
Understood. Thanks. Looks like I have more work to do!
Sport45
Explorer II
Apr 10, 2015
Hawkeye is right. You're wasting your time trying to level the trailer if the surface it's setting in isn't. Take the thing to a flat parking lot somewhere and set the trailer up parallel to the pavement. Setting it up with the truck and trailer on different planes is trial and error at best.

"Level" is correct when camping. When travelling down the road you want the trailer parallel to the road surface (or slightly nose down). The WD hitch should restore most of the weight back to the front axle.
JBarca
Nomad II
Apr 10, 2015
acritzer wrote:

I've tried to wrap my head around this concept and haven't quite gotten there. What if the driveway slopes and then levels out? What if the TV is on a higher grade than the trailer? How do you adjust hitch height with those variables?

Technically you can, but it gets complicated. Best way, drive to a flat parking lot long enough for the entire rig, bring wrenches and adjust away. Much easier.
acritzer
Explorer II
Apr 10, 2015
hawkeye-08 wrote:
IMHO, Using the level in the trailer to make sure the trailer is level or nose down slightly will only be applicable if the driveway is level. The driveway looks to be sloped, the trailer should be parallel to the driveway (I measure from trailer to ground front and back, using stripe on side that is same as frame. I used frame to get it right first time, then measured stripe and it was the same, so now I don't crawl under to measure frame from ground).

I've tried to wrap my head around this concept and haven't quite gotten there. What if the driveway slopes and then levels out? What if the TV is on a higher grade than the trailer? How do you adjust hitch height with those variables?
hawkeye-08
Explorer III
Apr 09, 2015
IMHO, Using the level in the trailer to make sure the trailer is level or nose down slightly will only be applicable if the driveway is level. The driveway looks to be sloped, the trailer should be parallel to the driveway (I measure from trailer to ground front and back, using stripe on side that is same as frame. I used frame to get it right first time, then measured stripe and it was the same, so now I don't crawl under to measure frame from ground).

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Hitch set up help

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