Hi everyone. Hoping for some clarification, guidance and ultimately some peace of mind on my hitch set up.I've read the set up procedure but seem to be running into a few problems.2011 Ford Expedition EL, 2008 Keystone Cougar 29BHSI don't know the brand of the hitch, but it has round bars.Questions:1) When measuring the TT for levelness can you use the floor just inside the door, as you would when setting up to camp?2) How important is it for the bars to be parallel to the frame and/or ground?I need to go through the process again using a couple of different tactics, but from what I've been able to do I've gotten the TT level. However, in order to put a decent amount of tension on the bars and actually get some WD going the bars are angled up quite a bit. It seems as though I have to work really hard to get them latched up. Often times I'll just use the jack to hold the weight until I get the snapped up.I'm also wondering what is "acceptable" for the back end to dip? My best efforts have gotten it to about 1" dip on the back and the front is up about 1/4". That being said though, I need to measure again before using the bars to compare the two. So far I'm only comparing the unhitched height.Thanks for any help you have and please ask me questions. I know I'm not all that clear.

without the brand/model # or pics, it might not get you all the info you need.there are a lot of different round bar WDH's out there.

1/4 inch rise in the front is within spec.. don't worry about the rear, its good too. Now, how many chain links do you have between the spring bar and the snap up bracket? This should be a MINIMUM of 5 links under tension. At least for a lot of round bar instructions I have read. If you are less than five links then you may need to add a washer or two to the hitch head and get a bit more hitch head angle. A side shot picture of everything all hitched up would be great!thanks!Jeremiah

the bars, if memory doesn't fail me again, the bars should be parallel to the tongue frame. you can go to etrailer on utube and watch how it is done.

Look here. :) If you are using a round bar hitch, you need to have a minimum of 5 links under tension between the snap-up hooks and the bars. Your bars are pointing upwards which means that you need to put a washer or two more on the pin in the hitch head (or whatever type of adjustment it requires) to tilt it back towards the trailer a bit. This will level out the bars which should run parallel to the A frame when hooked up. Doing this will probably require that you let out the chain about one link - which is good - to keep the weight distribution about the same. The reason for the bars being parallel to the frame (round bar systems) is so they don't crash into the frame or snap-ups when making turns as they move back and forth. It also keeps the tension on the chains even in both directions during turns. The reason for the 5 link minimum is to keep the chains from dragging the snap-ups on the A frame during turns and the tension even.Barney

Hitch set up help | Good Sam Community

48 Replies

RCMAN46
Explorer
Apr 05, 2015
I would say a trip to the scales is in order.

Without a tongue weight percentage you are shooting in the dark.
pappcam
Explorer
Apr 05, 2015
I basically set my ball height to where it should go according my WDH instructions and played with the hitch head tilt until the spring bars were transferring enough weight to bring my front end down to the same as unhitched and that they were level with the tongue. It took a bit of fiddling but once it's set you should be good to go. I also filled my TT like I would for any camping trip before I did it.
acritzer
Explorer II
Apr 05, 2015
Okay guys, thanks. I'll mess with it more on Monday and hopefully snap some pics.

I do already have some washers on the hitch and have a backwards tilt on the ball. I did this to try and give me more room for the bars to go below the frame.
I can easily use 6 links. However, I try to use 5 to add more tension.

Hopefully pics will help explain my problems.
BarneyS
Explorer III
Apr 05, 2015
Look here. :)

If you are using a round bar hitch, you need to have a minimum of 5 links under tension between the snap-up hooks and the bars. Your bars are pointing upwards which means that you need to put a washer or two more on the pin in the hitch head (or whatever type of adjustment it requires) to tilt it back towards the trailer a bit. This will level out the bars which should run parallel to the A frame when hooked up. Doing this will probably require that you let out the chain about one link - which is good - to keep the weight distribution about the same. The reason for the bars being parallel to the frame (round bar systems) is so they don't crash into the frame or snap-ups when making turns as they move back and forth. It also keeps the tension on the chains even in both directions during turns. The reason for the 5 link minimum is to keep the chains from dragging the snap-ups on the A frame during turns and the tension even.
Barney
old_guy
Explorer
Apr 04, 2015
the bars, if memory doesn't fail me again, the bars should be parallel to the tongue frame. you can go to etrailer on utube and watch how it is done.
handye9
Explorer II
Apr 04, 2015
Here's a youtube video
jerem0621
Explorer II
Apr 04, 2015
1/4 inch rise in the front is within spec.. don't worry about the rear, its good too.

Now, how many chain links do you have between the spring bar and the snap up bracket? This should be a MINIMUM of 5 links under tension. At least for a lot of round bar instructions I have read. If you are less than five links then you may need to add a washer or two to the hitch head and get a bit more hitch head angle.

A side shot picture of everything all hitched up would be great!

thanks!

Jeremiah
bikendan
Explorer
Apr 04, 2015
without the brand/model # or pics, it might not get you all the info you need.
there are a lot of different round bar WDH's out there.

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Hitch set up help

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