When buying, I take the worst case numbers. This means the trailer is loaded at maximum capacity resulting in 25% of that in pin weight. If it is a bumper pull, 15% of the weight would be on the hitch.
The truck manufacturer rating is based on many criteria but ultimately is conservative to avoid warranty claims and legal liabilities. If you were to look at the frame under your truck, it's the same one they use for 3500 DRW. The AAM rear axle used has over a 9000 lb rating from the source manufacturer.
One of the reason there is even a market for the 3/4t trucks is that the segment satisfies the commercial side where vehicles under 10,000 GVWR have less stringent operator licensing. Once you start digging deeper into the parts making up your truck, It is easier to list the differences between the 3500 SRW and 2500 than the commonalities.
My choice would be to get tires and rims that could handle the pin weight of the desired LQ horse trailer when fully loaded. If you need additional suspension aids to help level the truck, that can be addressed once you have some idea of actual rolling weight when you load up. There will be plenty of detractors crying that the sky will fall and you will locked up, but none of them have produced evidence to support their claims.
For 25,000 miles I drove a F250 with a 4000 lb truck camper. Half those miles I also towed an 8000 lb enclosed behind this setup. I had no failures and no scary uncontrolled moments even though I crossed the Rockies twice with this setup and live in an area where 3000' of elevation change is common. My only reason for selling that truck is that I am now looking at 6000 lb truck campers and I will eventually be pulling 12,000 lbs behind it.
