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jornvango's avatar
jornvango
Explorer II
Nov 24, 2014

How to hook up a toad to an RV using a tow bar?

I just installed base plates on my 2002 Wrangler and have purchased a Smitty Bilt tow bar to connect to the tow hook on my RV.

Before I do something wrong, I wanted to ask ...

1) Is there a right or wrong way to connect the Wrangler to the RV, as in, do you connect the tow bar first to the RV and then drive the Wrangler in position to attach the tow bar arms? Or, vice versa, where you first connect the arms to the Wrangler and then hook it onto the RV's tow hook (much like a regular trailer would work)?

2) The base plates on the Wrangler sit a little higher than the tow hook on the RV, so the tow bar will not be completely level to the ground. Is this a potential problem?

Thanks!

Jorn


P.S. Yes, I have already installed a lighting kit on the Wrangler to connect to the RV (so the blinkers, running lights, ... will work while towed) + I have a braking system (BrakeBuddy) in the Wrangler.
  • I just measured and the (middle of the) tow hitch is about 5 inches lower than the Wrangler's base plate connectors.

    It's tough to find a 'good' answer but 5 inches seems to be pushing it. I will go buy a hitch that can be raised at least a few inches.
  • Not being smart a$$ but buddy of mines had one and the bolts keep coming loose.He even try locktite but just wouldn't' stay tight.No trying to scare you but be careful. That jeep has some weight.. Most of the time you get what you pay for.
  • I have a different hitch now; it's currently only about 2 inches lower than the connections on the Jeep. That's within the range so I'll go with that.

    Just like the first time I hooked up a travel trailer with stabilizer bars, I guess it'll take some experience to get good at hooking up the Jeep. Thanks!
  • I believe they say it needs to be within 3 inches from level. Any more needs a drop hitch or if your high flip the drop hitch over and now its a riser hitch.
  • Unless you have very, very excellent depth perception and an accurate aiming point, a solid arm towbar is most likely a two person hookup.

    As Blue Ox says, the towbar should be level to no more than 4" higher on the MH end. It should never be higher on the toad than it is on the MH for a very good reason. If it is higher on the toad, the front end could lift in a panic stop situation and make a mess of the MH rear fiberglass.
  • "Unless you have very, very excellent depth perception and an accurate aiming point, a solid arm towbar is most likely a two person hookup."

    Based purely on personal experience, I don't find that statement to be true. That is what the GOAL method is all about, you Get Out And Look to see where you need to move, then get back in and move there. I frequently hooked mine up by myself with no trouble. HOWEVER, I had a hoop above the winch on my custom bumper, and I could hook the safety chain on that loop to support the towbar at the proper level to just miss the ball when I had it in the right position. when not in tow, I could also tie the towbar to that loop in a vertical position for travel, using the safety chains (but NOT in California, I understand that is illegal there).
  • We used a Reese rigid arm tow bar hooked to an aftermarket bumper on our 2009 Jeep wrangler for over 3 years. DW would pull the jeep up to the back of the MH while I guided the tow bar onto the 2" ball at the back of the MH. Many times I wondered if my life insurance was up to date as we had a manual transmission in that jeep, and the DW is not good at manual/clutch/etc. We actually used a riser on the back of the MH to get the tow bar almost level, most info I read on the net said not to have more than 3" up or down on a tow bar as this would put additional stress on both the towed and the tow vehicles. This set up worked well for us. We recently traded the jeep for a Ford C-Max, got the Blue Ox set up with base plate and extendable arms tow bar so that now I can hook up the toad by myself. Lots more money, but also easier to hook up.

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