Humidity! How to drop 20-30% in an hour.
So we're camping this past 9 days in all kinds of weather. Heat, cool, thunderstorms, dry, you get the picture. We're in our HTT with PUGs. Humidity was really high outside at times, which we didn'...
Forum Discussion
Ironically, the part of my post that has been re-posted over and over was not directed at the idea of heating and cooling simultaneously, which as others . . . and I . . . acknowledge, will work. It was directed to a post in which it was stated that propane heat is a 'dry' heat.
As a former HVAC professional, I used to hear people make such comments; that somehow, heating with a fossil fuel heater has magical properties that help to dry the air, more so than other means of heating. Not so, and doubly so in a trailer, as trailers use outside air to combust and vent it directly to the outside. Inside and outside air do not mix in this system, which would be called "high efficiency" in a stick home.
The "well, but" to this is that low efficiency furnaces in some homes DO use inside air for combustion, which of course must be replaced with outside air. In the winter, when you bring outside air in, no matter how humid, when it warms the air becomes very dry in a relative sense. So burning a fossil fuel can be drying, but only because of the process of combusting inside air and replacing it.
How relevant is the effect? This is right out of the charts: if you bring 20 degree, 100% humid air into the home and warm that air to 70 degrees, the humidity (relative to temperature) is 14%. Very, very dry. Desert air is generally considered to be 25%, for comparison. Imagine what happens with zero degree air brought in and heated! My chart doesn't even go below 20 degrees, but it would be single-digit humidity.
So, OP, I never disagreed with your post. In the same situation as you described, I'd do what you did: run heat and air at the same time. It works, and as I said, some office buildings use it year around. My earlier posts were directed to only those who frequently run into cool temperature, high humidity conditions that are best dealt with by other means. In my opinion, that is.
As a former HVAC professional, I used to hear people make such comments; that somehow, heating with a fossil fuel heater has magical properties that help to dry the air, more so than other means of heating. Not so, and doubly so in a trailer, as trailers use outside air to combust and vent it directly to the outside. Inside and outside air do not mix in this system, which would be called "high efficiency" in a stick home.
The "well, but" to this is that low efficiency furnaces in some homes DO use inside air for combustion, which of course must be replaced with outside air. In the winter, when you bring outside air in, no matter how humid, when it warms the air becomes very dry in a relative sense. So burning a fossil fuel can be drying, but only because of the process of combusting inside air and replacing it.
How relevant is the effect? This is right out of the charts: if you bring 20 degree, 100% humid air into the home and warm that air to 70 degrees, the humidity (relative to temperature) is 14%. Very, very dry. Desert air is generally considered to be 25%, for comparison. Imagine what happens with zero degree air brought in and heated! My chart doesn't even go below 20 degrees, but it would be single-digit humidity.
So, OP, I never disagreed with your post. In the same situation as you described, I'd do what you did: run heat and air at the same time. It works, and as I said, some office buildings use it year around. My earlier posts were directed to only those who frequently run into cool temperature, high humidity conditions that are best dealt with by other means. In my opinion, that is.
