I have a weight dilemma.. what would you do?

Not sure who missed their miralax yesterday and is bound up!
Love this site, could not be better comedy!

So let me see if I got this right. You can feel the difference in braking between an 3500 SRW and a 3500 DRW (real wheels both have not lost traction)?
Now that there is impressive!

travelnutz wrote:
Lantley,

Sorry to have to enlighten you. If the trailer brakes are properly adjusted and employed, they alone stop the RV trailer's forward motion and also pull backward on the tow vehicle. If not, there's an excellent chance of a jacknife condition in the rigs future. Especially on gravel, loose stone, wet or slippery road surfaces, etc. The trailer should never be allowed to push forward on it's tow vehicle when braking! The tow vehicle's brakes only should be the braking source if or when the trailer brakes fail!

Doesn't matter if it's a 1/2 ton pickup or smaller or and 1 ton pickup or larger! The fact remains constant!

Not my problem if you do NOT have your trailer brakes properly adjusted. That is until you fail to stop and hit me or jacknife or lose control and hit me. Then I will have a problem that will very quickly become a real problem for you and you can certainly count on it!!!

What ever happened to learning how to tow properly and legally before actually towing an RV over about 3500 lb or a utility trailer or boat? Most states have laws that are required to be adhered to. Ever hear of "Liability"?

No enlightenment necessary. Put those text books and degrees away and actually drive the trucks. You just may get some real world enlightenment yourself.
Same trailer different trucks. Dually always stops much better regardless of how well the trailer brakes are adjusted. Brakes maybe adjusted perfectly or they may be out of whack the dually will always stop better.
It appears a few others have read your diatribe and have had similar results as mine. Stopping their trailers driving a dually.
In the end there is nothing here for me to debate with you. I have already experienced the braking difference for myself.
The truck's braking ability can have a dramatic effect on stopping the trailer. The trailer's brakes will be assisted by the trucks braking system when you have a large enough truck.
You can enlighten others if you like. But I'll take a pass on your braking rhetoric.

To the OP, I would have no problem tugging that 5ver with a brand new Dmax. Some good tires and something to shore up the rear suspension and hit the road.....
But you do. It have enough understanding or experience to push the limits of your tow truck IMO.
Find a bigger truck or smaller trailer.

No dough the 3500 DRV has more stopping ability for the same RV being towed compare to 2500 . I think the comparison is 3500 SRW and 2500 SRW. DRW is hydro boost braking and have bigger brakes. the way I check my braking is to let the rig roll and manually set the trailer brakes that stops the rig. I believe the truck brakes are designed to stop the legal GVW and not the towing capacity.

travelnutz wrote:
Kind of comical seeing all the posts citing the truck's brakes when pulling a large trailer. The trailer brakes stop the trailer anmd pull backwards on the tow vehicle if adjusted properly. Having the truck's brakes stop the trailer is asking for a jacknife to happen! The trailer MUST pull backward on the truck when braking! Different when hauling a truck camper as it has no axle nor brakes so the truck brakes must stop both.

That's funny or is it comical? :h

On their own the brakes on my current 3500HD dually are designed to stop a 13,000 pound truck and the last truck I had was a 2010 2500HD where the brakes on it were designed to stop a 9,200 pound truck. Theoretically the dually is 29% better.

At the controller I setup the properly adjusted trailer brakes to the point just before lockup with either truck. I feel that familiar tug whenever I step on the brake pedal in either truck/trailer combo.

Except that the dually has better stopping ability so from a practicable standpoint.... yes that combo does stop better than it did when the over loaded 3/4 ton pulled the same trailer. This with the trailer pulling backwards on the TV.

Lantley,

Sorry to have to enlighten you. If the trailer brakes are properly adjusted and employed, they alone stop the RV trailer's forward motion and also pull backward on the tow vehicle. If not, there's an excellent chance of a jacknife condition in the rigs future. Especially on gravel, loose stone, wet or slippery road surfaces, etc. The trailer should never be allowed to push forward on it's tow vehicle when braking! The tow vehicle's brakes only should be the braking source if or when the trailer brakes fail!

Doesn't matter if it's a 1/2 ton pickup or smaller or and 1 ton pickup or larger! The fact remains constant!

Not my problem if you do NOT have your trailer brakes properly adjusted. That is until you fail to stop and hit me or jacknife or lose control and hit me. Then I will have a problem that will very quickly become a real problem for you and you can certainly count on it!!!

What ever happened to learning how to tow properly and legally before actually towing an RV over about 3500 lb or a utility trailer or boat? Most states have laws that are required to be adhered to. Ever hear of "Liability"?

I had a Dodge long bed dually and upgraded to a Chevy long bed dually with 4 wheel drive. 4WD is something you may never need but if you ever get into a dicey situation the 4WD may be worth its weight in gold. I thought that the 2 extra wheels would give me all the extra traction I needed but got into un-paved lot where it got a lot of rain over night after I parked overnight I had a Dodge long bed dually and upgraded to a Chevy long bed dually with 4 wheel drive. 4WD is something you may never need but if you ever get into a dicey situation the 4WD may be worth its weight in gold. I thought that the 2 extra wheels would give me all the extra traction I needed but got into un-paved lot where it got a lot of rain over night after I parked overnight.



The long bed comes in handy, it gives me room for a 95 gallon AUX tank.
It allows me to pick and choose stations with the easiest access. It isn't bad down south but there are some area in the north east that are very difficult to get in and out of. I passed by a few stations in N.J. where I would have had to un-hook my RV in order to get in and out of. If you just consider dollars. some diesel stations in N.Y. charge over a dollar of a gallon more in N.Y but I will never come close to breaking even on what I paid for my tank set up but the connivence and piece of mind is priceless

If 3/4 and 1 ton are the same why buy a one ton?

Travelnutz while I agree in theory the trailer brakes stop the trailer. The trucks brakes do significantly affect stopping the trailer.
My dually will stop whatever it is towing much faster /stronger/better than a SRW truck. I challenge your statements because I am basing my comments on experience towing with a dually vs. towing with a SRW truck.
The dually has more braking power and will control/stop the trailer significantly faster.
The features of the truck also impact trailer braking. Exhaust brakes are another way the truck stops the trailer.
Claiming that one can rely solely rely on the trailer brakes to stop the trailer is misleading. Especially for newbies that have no experience and don't know any better.