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Desert_Captain's avatar
Desert_Captain
Explorer III
Jan 25, 2018

Is it time to change you water heater anode?

This is one of those preventative maintenance chores that like changing batteries in your smoke detectors, that can easily be overlooked. If you can't remember when it was last changed or simply don't know... it is time. At the RV Show in Quartzsite last week I found a box of generic water heater anodes selling for $10 a piece. These are compatible with all Suburban water heaters and almost half price vs CW.

It takes just a few minutes to drain, flush and change the anode but doing so about once a year will save your water heater tank from serious corrosion that can lead to a premature failure. Here's how:

Turn off the water heater - both electric and gas and shut off your water pump and or disconnect from the city water source. Release the pressure valve, yes you may get a bit wet so stand clear. When the pressure is fully released you can now unscrew and remove the old anode.

To get it out you will need a 15/16ths socket, which can be hard to find unless... you happen to have a large "X" lug wrench in which case you will find the largest end to be a perfect fit. Unscrew and discard the anode {it should show significant corrosion which just means it was doing its job - giving its life so that your tank might live and heat on} letting the tank drain completely.

You will probably see a lot of white debris which is the residue from the old dissolving anode element. Blow out the tank with a garden hose to dislodge the remaining debris. Letting it run under pressure and then allowing it to drain may take a few cycles depending on how long that anode has been in there and how much has been eaten away.

Close the pressure relief valve. Now simply install the new anode make sure the threads are smooth and that it seats snugly. Turn on your water source {fresh water pump or city water} and allow the tank to refill. Open your hot water faucets one at a time to bleed the air out and to make sure they are flowing. Sometimes the old anode debris can clog your aerators, blocking the hot water flow {don't ask me how I learned this and thanks to the folks here on the Forum who explained the problem and solution to me a couple of years ago}.

Turn on the gas and or electric and in no time you should have restored the flow of steaming hot water to your taps. You should now be good to go for at least another year.

:C
  • lawrosa wrote:
    badsix wrote:
    so a T/T newbe here, I believe my tank is aluminum, so do aluminum tanks have an anode?
    Thanks Jay D.


    No.... And dont put one in....Should have a plastic drain plug...


    Additionally dont add a brass drain plug to an aluminum water heater... Will cause galvanic corrosion..
  • GordonThree wrote:
    Aluminum is not immune to corrosion. Aluminum hulled sailing vessels have anode bars bolted to the hull.


    Yes . But salt water and a vessel moving makes electric current causing galvanic corrosion. And especially in the slip if the boat next to him has brass through hull hardware.

    The issue with the aluminum HWH's are the owners remove the plastic plugs and add brass ones with the quick drains..:S

    Dissimilar metals ...

    and yes with aluminum tanks and if electric option, a low voltage short can cause this corrosion too or grounding issues when on electric.

    To note my Attwood on my 2003 was a gas unit only... And even with my new camper with the suburban I only run it on gas.. When I went to disney I ran electric and gas at night when all had to shower..
  • mike brez wrote:
    I never change mine. But come to think of it I don't have one either.


    Me, too.
  • lawrosa wrote:
    old guy wrote:
    mike brez wrote:
    I never change mine. But come to think of it I don't have one either.

    I guess that means you have one of those off brand water heater. I'll take a suburban heater any day over that other brand


    Those non suburban water heaters ( Atwood) have an aluminum tank. My 2003 coachmen that I sold 2015 never had an issue. They don't need anodes.

    I would of preferred an Attwood aluminum over the steel tank suburban anyday....
    Weez agreez...

    The water heater in our 1990 trailer still works perfectly - Atwood.

    The water heater in our Roadtrek needs yearly anode attention and it sometimes has stinky water - Suburban.
  • lawrosa wrote:
    My opinion is dont skimp on the anode no name brands unless you know the material.

    Im a plumber 30 years...

    The suburbans want full magnesium. The one with the bubble on the end of the nut.

    After markets are often aluminum / zinc and 1/2 the size.. Usually flat on the nut. No bubble. These don't work well.

    Not worth penny pinching a $300 water heater for a $12 part on amazon. You may find a $6 magnesium on amazon but I prefer the suburban part #..


    See this video regarding the wrong material anode..

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcxHIFKLVbc

    $12 bucks free shipping suburban anode here..

    https://www.amazon.com/Suburban-232768-Water-Heater-Aluminum/dp/B003DGL24G/ref=sr_1_2?m=A32JMRLJAMEVOJ&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1516936089&sr=1-2&refinements=p_4%3ASuburban


    I agree, for the small price difference, I use Suburban brand, for best fit/best protection.

    Jerry
  • Depends on the water of how long an anode good for. Well water in Yuma only 2 months. City water in Yuma, friends had no problem getting 5 months when they were there. We both had the mag type. Don't know why such big difference.
  • old guy wrote:
    mike brez wrote:
    I never change mine. But come to think of it I don't have one either.

    I guess that means you have one of those off brand water heater. I'll take a suburban heater any day over that other brand


    Hmmm Atwood a off brand :hi ROTFLMAO
  • You really cannot replace on a time schedule, as it all depends on water quality. I've seen them last years, and I've seen them last a few months.

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