Is my Ready Brake Always on going downhill?
We went to Yosemite last week going up 120 through Groveland and our little Tracker pulled like a charm. On the way back down the (New) Old Priest Grade I was able to have the Motor Home in 2nd and it...
Forum Discussion
Just Lee,
Well Sir, you've been given lots of explanations of how things work and, how to change/alter things to accomplish your purpose. I'll give you one more.
First, I installed a Ready Brake when they first came out, somewhere around 10 + years ago. My Ready Brake was installed way different than the factory install instructions. My R/B is not connected to the toad brake pedal 24/7 like they would have you do. I set it up with clip mechanism that takes around, 3-4 seconds to hook up. That way, the R/B cable system is not being used and wearing on that cable housing etc. for no reason at all. Then, instead of that hideous cable adjustment system of looping the cables and using "cable clamps" for adjusting the tension for the link cable, I use a stainless steel turn buckle which works flawlessly.
Anyway, the primary reason (as has somewhat been explained) that your toads brakes ARE NOT CONSISTANTLY APPLIED WHILE YOU'RE DECENDING A HILL/GRADE is because of the spring loaded actuator of the R/B. That spring is a seriously strong spring. Now, it will not overcome the force of the toads weight as it surges forward while the brakes are applied in the coach. That's not its intent. However, what it is intended for is to overcome the "drift" or, "coasting" weight as you decend a grade.
In that, once the brakes are applied, the inertia of the toad is pressed against the actuator and, therefore, the action of it, will over come that strong spring and apply the brakes in the toad. But, as you back off on the brakes in the coach, that spring takes over and actually "backs off" the toad enough that the actuation of the brake pedal is released but, as you most likely know, the brake switch on the toad is normally adjusted in such a manor that, it closes the circuit even when the brake arm in the toad is SLIGHTLY moved.
Hence, that's why you'll see the light on your dash. The arm is moved enough to trigger the light but, not apply the toad brakes.
Now, when I set my system up, I too sent the signal from the toads brake switch to the dash on the coach. But, I did it in what to me is, a very simple way. You'd be surprised how many folks out there in RV land don't have a clue that their toads brake lights are being lit up when they're using an auxiliary brake system in toad. No one ever tells them.
Anyway, because I wired my toads all the exact same way, (seven different Jeep Wranglers over a 25 year period) and that is to utilize the stock tail lights for toad lights when towing. So, to alleviate the dual signals being sent to the same filament while towing, here's what I did.
A very simple solution. No diodes in this section. All I did was, cut the brake switch output wire from the toads brake switch. I then routed it to a tiny, double throw, toggle switch located almost in the door jamb of the Jeep. I ran that wire to the center post of that toggle. Then, I ran another wire, right back to the cut wire on the brake light switch. I tied those together. Now, I ran another wire from the other side of that toggle switch, to the front of the toad, through the pig tail, and all the way to an LED light on the dash of the coach.
Now, when the toad is being towed, I flip the switch to send the toads brake switch signal, to the dash on the coach. But, when driving the toad, I flip the switch to send the toads brake light signal to the toads brake lights, as normal. To me, it was incredibly simple solution to cover three issues. 1, it stops dual signals being sent to one filament, 2, it allows for one filament to accommodate signals from two different sources, and 3, It allows for me to be notified that the R/B system is working correctly.
Just another way to look at your situation for you. Take care.
Scott
Well Sir, you've been given lots of explanations of how things work and, how to change/alter things to accomplish your purpose. I'll give you one more.
First, I installed a Ready Brake when they first came out, somewhere around 10 + years ago. My Ready Brake was installed way different than the factory install instructions. My R/B is not connected to the toad brake pedal 24/7 like they would have you do. I set it up with clip mechanism that takes around, 3-4 seconds to hook up. That way, the R/B cable system is not being used and wearing on that cable housing etc. for no reason at all. Then, instead of that hideous cable adjustment system of looping the cables and using "cable clamps" for adjusting the tension for the link cable, I use a stainless steel turn buckle which works flawlessly.
Anyway, the primary reason (as has somewhat been explained) that your toads brakes ARE NOT CONSISTANTLY APPLIED WHILE YOU'RE DECENDING A HILL/GRADE is because of the spring loaded actuator of the R/B. That spring is a seriously strong spring. Now, it will not overcome the force of the toads weight as it surges forward while the brakes are applied in the coach. That's not its intent. However, what it is intended for is to overcome the "drift" or, "coasting" weight as you decend a grade.
In that, once the brakes are applied, the inertia of the toad is pressed against the actuator and, therefore, the action of it, will over come that strong spring and apply the brakes in the toad. But, as you back off on the brakes in the coach, that spring takes over and actually "backs off" the toad enough that the actuation of the brake pedal is released but, as you most likely know, the brake switch on the toad is normally adjusted in such a manor that, it closes the circuit even when the brake arm in the toad is SLIGHTLY moved.
Hence, that's why you'll see the light on your dash. The arm is moved enough to trigger the light but, not apply the toad brakes.
Now, when I set my system up, I too sent the signal from the toads brake switch to the dash on the coach. But, I did it in what to me is, a very simple way. You'd be surprised how many folks out there in RV land don't have a clue that their toads brake lights are being lit up when they're using an auxiliary brake system in toad. No one ever tells them.
Anyway, because I wired my toads all the exact same way, (seven different Jeep Wranglers over a 25 year period) and that is to utilize the stock tail lights for toad lights when towing. So, to alleviate the dual signals being sent to the same filament while towing, here's what I did.
A very simple solution. No diodes in this section. All I did was, cut the brake switch output wire from the toads brake switch. I then routed it to a tiny, double throw, toggle switch located almost in the door jamb of the Jeep. I ran that wire to the center post of that toggle. Then, I ran another wire, right back to the cut wire on the brake light switch. I tied those together. Now, I ran another wire from the other side of that toggle switch, to the front of the toad, through the pig tail, and all the way to an LED light on the dash of the coach.
Now, when the toad is being towed, I flip the switch to send the toads brake switch signal, to the dash on the coach. But, when driving the toad, I flip the switch to send the toads brake light signal to the toads brake lights, as normal. To me, it was incredibly simple solution to cover three issues. 1, it stops dual signals being sent to one filament, 2, it allows for one filament to accommodate signals from two different sources, and 3, It allows for me to be notified that the R/B system is working correctly.
Just another way to look at your situation for you. Take care.
Scott
