Leave my plugged in over winter in barn ??
Ok my rig goes inside my pole barn, the barn is TIGHT and has a concrete floor with a vapor barrier under the concrete. I live in the snow belt of upstate NY After I winterize should I add Stabil to ...
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Maybe, maybe not...it depends on how it's wired. It shuts most things down, at least.
Often that switch will disconnect the battery from the converter. Sometimes, however, the converter is wired to the battery side of the switch, in which case it won't disconnect the converter. Often a few loads are not disconnected, such as the CO or LP gas alarm. Often, too, if there are large loads (like an inverter) they are also wired directly and not disconnected. There's a fair bit of variation.
There is rarely a good reason to have to use that switch to disconnect the battery. If you're using the RV, leave the battery on. If you're storing it where you have electricity available, leave it on and leave the RV plugged in. If you're storing it where there is no electricity for an extended period, disconnect the battery entirely, in which case the switch's position is irrelevant. It's really only useful if you're storing for a modest length of time (a couple weeks, maybe) and don't have power available, or need to shut down the 12V system for some reason such as to perform maintenance.
On my particular motorhome, the converter is wired to the battery directly, so the disconnect switch does not disconnect the converter but there is no 12V power available in the RV with it turned off even when plugged into shore power. The only loads that are not disconnected are (or maybe I should say were, as I've done a bit of tinkering since) the radio memory circuit, the power for the entrance step (which is only controlled by a manual switch, so consumes no power unless it's being extended or retracted), and the generator starter/control circuit.
Often that switch will disconnect the battery from the converter. Sometimes, however, the converter is wired to the battery side of the switch, in which case it won't disconnect the converter. Often a few loads are not disconnected, such as the CO or LP gas alarm. Often, too, if there are large loads (like an inverter) they are also wired directly and not disconnected. There's a fair bit of variation.
There is rarely a good reason to have to use that switch to disconnect the battery. If you're using the RV, leave the battery on. If you're storing it where you have electricity available, leave it on and leave the RV plugged in. If you're storing it where there is no electricity for an extended period, disconnect the battery entirely, in which case the switch's position is irrelevant. It's really only useful if you're storing for a modest length of time (a couple weeks, maybe) and don't have power available, or need to shut down the 12V system for some reason such as to perform maintenance.
On my particular motorhome, the converter is wired to the battery directly, so the disconnect switch does not disconnect the converter but there is no 12V power available in the RV with it turned off even when plugged into shore power. The only loads that are not disconnected are (or maybe I should say were, as I've done a bit of tinkering since) the radio memory circuit, the power for the entrance step (which is only controlled by a manual switch, so consumes no power unless it's being extended or retracted), and the generator starter/control circuit.
