Leveling side to side method from seasoned campers

wbwood wrote:
So I emailed the company and asked if they would work on a Class C. They said they would as long as it's not too large of a tire.

That's an oversimplification as it's not just the tire diameter but also the axle spread between adjacent dual axles as to whether the Andersen Leveler system will "work", regardless of what type of rig we're talking about. If there isn't sufficient room for the Andersen Leveler that's placed between the two adjacent tires to freely rotate as the rig is pulled up on to it then it's going to jam between the tires. Yes, you can trim the narrow end of the leveler but then you're also reducing the minimum lift of the leveler which in some cases can be a drawback. An alternative solution for some is to instead bevel the lower edge of the leveler's thick end but for those of us who have a rig with a particularly narrow axle spread neither solution will necessarily prevent the leveler from jamming. Keep in mind also that the Andersen Leveler has a fairly narrow footprint, just 6" in width, and can easily sink when sitting on a soft ground surface. They're also made of hard plastic and can easily slip on a hard surface such as tarmac or cement. So ... while many Andersen Leveler owners are quite happy with their purchase the fact remains that the devil is in the details and whether a set will work in your particular situation is not quite as simple as the manufacturer would have you believe. ;)

Excellent summation of the Anderson Levelers, SoundGuy.

By the way, we love watching the RedGreen show when we can get it during our travels. One of our favorites!

My son really likes the Anderson levelers. One member decided to make his own, all you need it the wood and band saw.

We use Anderson levelers as well and love them. I needed to trim the tip off of the leveler used between the tires, but it hasn't caused me any problems yet.

Simple but effective?? I built a ramp out of an 8 ft long 2x8. Cut into 2 4ft long pieces. One piece was cut diagonally to make two triangles. The second piece is screwed onto these triangles to make a 4 ft long ramp. (put small braces between those triangles). A large/visible level on the nose of the trailer let me know on which side to put the ramp. Then back onto the ramp until the level shows level. Block it up then level front to back and you are set to go!!

SoundGuy wrote:

wbwood wrote:
So I emailed the company and asked if they would work on a Class C. They said they would as long as it's not too large of a tire.

That's an oversimplification as it's not just the tire diameter but also the axle spread between adjacent dual axles as to whether the Andersen Leveler system will "work", regardless of what type of rig we're talking about. If there isn't sufficient room for the Andersen Leveler that's placed between the two adjacent tires to freely rotate as the rig is pulled up on to it then it's going to jam between the tires. Yes, you can trim the narrow end of the leveler but then you're also reducing the minimum lift of the leveler which in some cases can be a drawback. An alternative solution for some is to instead bevel the lower edge of the leveler's thick end but for those of us who have a rig with a particularly narrow axle spread neither solution will necessarily prevent the leveler from jamming. Keep in mind also that the Andersen Leveler has a fairly narrow footprint, just 6" in width, and can easily sink when sitting on a soft ground surface. They're also made of hard plastic and can easily slip on a hard surface such as tarmac or cement. So ... while many Andersen Leveler owners are quite happy with their purchase the fact remains that the devil is in the details and whether a set will work in your particular situation is not quite as simple as the manufacturer would have you believe. ;)

I'm just repeating what they told me... they sent a picture of a diagram of tire that said 32" and showed how it wouldn't seat properly in the "cup" of it. With it being 6" wide as you say, I see no issue with my dually tires and the width. Lynx Levelers are about 8" wide and have no issues with them going between the two tires. I also use 2x10 boards and there is even a gap between those when leveling. And I am not talking about dual axles. I'm talking about a single axle with dually wheels. As far as them sinking in soft ground or slipping on wet cement. That will happen with lynx levelers and wood boards can slip on wet cement as well.

cruiserjs wrote:
A large/visible level on the nose of the trailer let me know on which side to put the ramp. Then back onto the ramp until the level shows level. Block it up then level front to back and you are set to go!!

A group of us on another forum spent considerable time and effort examining this exact solution and came to the conclusion a leveling ramp was a bad idea. Why? ... because as you back a dual axle trailer up on to that ramp the axle equalizer increasingly offsets and the force placed on the rear wheel suspension components are significantly higher than force on the front axle suspension components and for the duration of your stay will remain like this. As well, that elevated low side will be subjected unevenly to forces relative to those on the high side where the axle equalizer will be sitting relatively level and suspension components for each axle will each be subjected to approximately the same force. It was an interesting experiment but I eventually tossed my ramp where it belonged - into the garbage. ;)

wbwood wrote:
I'm talking about a single axle with dually wheels.

Got it! So jamming won't be an issue in your case but I do question why Andersen chose to make these levelers so narrow, knowing they will sink into soft ground surfaces as many owners have reported has been the case. Others have also reported they will slip on hard surfaces and have resorted to rubber padding underneath the leveler to prevent it from doing so.

As far as them sinking in soft ground or slipping on wet cement. That will happen with lynx levelers and wood boards can slip on wet cement as well.

Not mine, which are mounted to a wood base ... pull up on the first Lynx and the rest just can't go anywhere. :B

Never had a problem with the Andersens slipping, sinking, or jamming. Using them in the woods tends to roughen the bottoms and help with any smooth surfaces. Going on 3 yrs with them, and never have needed to spend all that time using the "lego" method!!! With a center mounted front level, usually don't even need the good woman.

Now, that said, we camp almost exclusively in Nat Forests, boondocking spots, in the dirt!!! I can only see the time involved with boards, lynx, and others being worthwhile if spending many days in a "resort"!! I'd rather get leveled, set-up, and fire built so I can relax with a cool one!! Enough of this perfection, it's called "camping"!!

Just havin' fun, ya'll!!!

Recently had to use my pair of 2X10s at Crater of Diamonds SP. Leveled the trailer fine, but the boards plus the drop-off from the asphalt parking pad made for a heck of a first step. :B