Longer Shank Effects On WD Hitch

This weekend I am going to switch from a 12" shank to a 18" shank so I can open my tailgate while I am hooked up.

How much difference will this make on the settings or stress on the WD hitch and receiver.

Just looking for opinion's how it has worked from someone that has done it before.

Thank you and have a great weekend!

The short answer is simple. The longer the shank from normal, the less weight your hitch can handle.

jmtandem wrote:

This weekend I am going to switch from a 12" shank to a 18" shank so I can open my tailgate while I am hooked up.

How much difference will this make on the settings or stress on the WD hitch and receiver.

Just looking for opinion's how it has worked from someone that has done it before.

Thank you and have a great weekend!

The short answer is simple. The longer the shank from normal, the less weight your hitch can handle.

POPPYCOCK!, I challenge you to provide authoritative reference to what you are saying along with just what is normal from a drawbar length standpoint. I have never seen any receiver/tow vehicle specifiy any adjustments in capacities when using any of the normal drawbars from lengths of around 8 1/2 to 18 in. The same applies to any drawbar specifications or adds for the various length drawbars available up to the max I have ever seen which is 18in. There is one model of a Reese Drawbar with multiple holes where the drawbar capacity is different depending on what hole is used to secure the drawbar into the receiver.

BTW, I have been using the same 18" drawbar on two separate vehicles and two different trailers at the maximum receiver tongue wt. in a WDH configuration since 1982 (that's 34 years) and for close to 150K miles towing at within 100lbs of the stated receiver capacity successfully and without issues.

Now actual "extensions" like the ones that fit into the receiver and then the drawbar fits into the extension are a different story and those do require a reduction in tongue wt. allowed.

Bottom line is that IMO that "extra" 6in will not have any significant impact on anything that will be noticeable.


Larry

My shank has 2 holes in it, 1000 and 1200. the farther out it is the less WD you get!

I have a Reese shank, that I no longer use, with a label stating a lower rating when used in the longer position. That only makes sense.

When I got a 2-1/2" shank, to do away with the 2" to 2-1/2" adapter, it was about 4" longer. It proved to be no problem and with the better fit it worked quite well.

There you have it. Two people with facts rather than just an opinion to support jmtandem's reply. Which I also happened to agree with. ;)

It's all a matter of additional leverage which may or may not be enough to adversely affect the hitch's capabilities when towing a particular trailer. :@

There you have it. Two people with facts rather than just an opinion to support jmtandem's reply. Which I also happened to agree with.

It's all a matter of additional leverage which may or may not be enough to adversely affect the hitch's capabilities when towing a particular trailer.

This comment is well received. Actually there are facts to support that the longer the shank the less WD it can support. References
include Lance camper literature values for extensions and so does Torklift. Sure, only six more inches is not much and perhaps at the end of the day does not really made much difference but there is a slight albeit reduction in hitch tongue weight capacity.

It's rated for whatever it is marked at for it's rating. Mine has two holes in it also, it has an 1400 lbs. rating. One rating that's it. Maybe it ain't the shank that is the weakest link. Or maybe it's rated for the longest length. In any event, it is rated for whatever it says it is.

There are some folks who moved to a Hensley Arrow to solve this problem with the tail gate. I wondered why they just didn't buy the extended shank.

Curt has a note on all their shanks ads that says "limited to spring bar capacity"

Thanks!

Jeremiah

This is all about one of the laws of physics...levers...and in engineering
speak...a moment

How a Lever Works


And the crux of it for this discussion is that the longer/shorter the lever arm,
the more/less affect...or is it effect...on the WD system...gotta walk
myself through this talking to myself...Affect is when you do something...effect
is what happens after you do something...right?

Kevin...which is the 1K hole and which is the 1.2K hole...that is closer
to the TV's rear axle...

BenK wrote:
This is all about one of the laws of physics...levers...and in engineering
speak...a moment

How a Lever Works


And the crux of it for this discussion is that the longer/shorter the lever arm,
the more/less affect...or is it effect...on the WD system...gotta walk
myself through this talking to myself...Affect is when you do something...effect
is what happens after you do something...right?

Kevin...which is the 1K hole and which is the 1.2K hole...that is closer
to the TV's rear axle...

It's in the trailer at the moment. I believe the 1k is near the axle, so it would be longer. The 1200 lb is farther out making it shorter. I'll have to look, I'm going there sat. Or sun.

I found this

http://www.reeseprod.com/ProductPhoto/500/54970.png