Forum Discussion
- rhagfoExplorer III
blofgren wrote:
Veebyes wrote:
If there is a complex expensive way to deal with something simple someone is sure to suggest it.
Cooling the 50amp beast got old real fast so a nautical method of storing awkward line is used.
It is flaked into an oval laundry basket. Enough of the female end is left out to reach the inlet. Only as much as needed is pulled out to the utility post.
Cheap and effective.
I hear you, but you would be amazed how much better the SOOW cord is! :)
Well if those asking would realize that the pictures I posted before are 40’ measured of 6/4 SOOW cable in a 3 gallon bucket with my 30 amp to 50 amp dog bone also.
It goes in the bucket at 28 degrees as easily as it does at 80 degrees! - blofgrenExplorer
Veebyes wrote:
If there is a complex expensive way to deal with something simple someone is sure to suggest it.
Cooling the 50amp beast got old real fast so a nautical method of storing awkward line is used.
It is flaked into an oval laundry basket. Enough of the female end is left out to reach the inlet. Only as much as needed is pulled out to the utility post.
Cheap and effective.
I hear you, but you would be amazed how much better the SOOW cord is! :) - VeebyesExplorer IIIf there is a complex expensive way to deal with something simple someone is sure to suggest it.
Cooling the 50amp beast got old real fast so a nautical method of storing awkward line is used.
It is flaked into an oval laundry basket. Enough of the female end is left out to reach the inlet. Only as much as needed is pulled out to the utility post.
Cheap and effective. - JRscoobyExplorer IINever worked with heavy power cord, but with heavy extension cables for a winch I found that coiling around a drum by hand is nearly impossible. But feed it into a cylinder, much easier. (Haul 150 feet of 1/2 inch cable in a 14 inch car tire. Roll down to vehicle that needs pulled. Hook to load, roll back to feed out cable. At end, hook to winch cable with cable thru tire. As pull in, tire comes up with, and if breaks the tire slows the whip)
- frankwpExplorer
poppa wrote:
also if ya use a reel it should be fully unreeled be for use due to counter emf in the circuit. actually for any cord.
Sorry, but you've got some mixed up info there. Counter-EMF does not come into play at all in this situation. Maybe you're thinking of electric motor windings.
The reason for not using the cord while it's not fully unreeled is that if it's being used at anywhere near its capacity, the portion that's still on the reel can overheat to the point of melting or even starting a fire. - dodge_guyExplorer IIMine is just looped and stored in the electric bay. Mine is also hardwired.
- poppaExploreralso if ya use a reel it should be fully unreeled be for use due to counter emf in the circuit. actually for any cord.
- Cummins12V98Explorer IIIFor a cord to properly coil on a powered reel it needs to be a SO cord as shown here.
- DtankExplorer
Cummins12V98 wrote:
Don't anyone think that simply buying a 12V cord reel to put your existing cord on will work. Reason is standard cords are too stiff.
Which is too stiff? (Which is "standard"?)
My factory supplied "Anaconda" is very stiff - it would require a reel twice the size of the replacement cord (which is better quality, much more flexible cord).
IMO - the "standard"(?) factory cord is result of low bid by the mfgr's bean counters...kinda like tires, LOL.
BTW: A factory rep at an RV show admitted same, in re: the bean counters.
:W - Cummins12V98Explorer IIIDon't anyone think that simply buying a 12V cord reel to put your existing cord on will work. Reason is standard cords are too stiff.
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