Forum Discussion
pianotuna
Jan 02, 2021Nomad III
DrewE,
Yes the autoformer causes more amps to be drawn--however the difference in power allows my RV to get to the point where the electric heaters cycle sooner. As I use multiple heaters of various wattage, and limit my demand post autoformer to 24 amps, I've not had a pedestal breaker flip for many years.
I should have put that information in my post so thanks for jogging my mind.
Here is a list of all my heating type devices:
4 heated carpets (one in the pass through storage)
1 500 watt heater in the waste tanks area controlled by a mechanical thermostat set at about 4 c (41 f)
1 1500 watt "ceramic" type unit operated on 750 watt setting
1 radiant heater 900 watts operated on a 450 watt setting (used for thawing storage doors on compartments
1 mattress pad 100 watts (only once side used so 50 watts)
1 heating pad 50 watts low, medium and high settings.
1 12 volt heating blanket about 72 watts
2 oil filled 1500 watt heaters operated on the 600 watt setting
1 1200 watt fan based heater with no thermostat operated on the low setting (possibly 600 watts).
1 magnetic block heater that can be used on the propane tank, or on the Yamaha generator.
1 60 watt light bulb in the outside fridge access controlled by a thermocube to prevent gelling of the coolant media
1 water heater 1400 watts
1 240 volt 100 watt light bulb kept beside the water pump powered by 110 volts
1 50 watt heating rod which runs beside the water lines
1 27 watt fan that replaces the return air grill for the furnace which pressurize the heating duct work, keeping the water lines from freezing
(the three items above are controlled by a mechanical thermostat that sits beside an outside wall)
In addition cooking is done with microwave 1541 watts (what were they thinking), an induction Nuwave hob 1330 watts, toaster 850 watts, coffee maker 300 watts, a grill with removable plates so it can be a waffle maker, open grill, or clam shell 1200 watts.
There is a bit of waste heat from the inverter.
My peak load when it is in the -30ties is 7000 watts, and the average demand is 129 KWH per day. I can do that because I have a 50 amp break out box, equipped with one leg 30 amp outlet, and the other leg 2 20 amp outlets. (yes, I know it is not balanced.) I use that to power 1 15 amp auxiliary shore power cord, 1 20 amp auxiliary shore power cord, and the OEM 30 amp shore power cord.
Yes the autoformer causes more amps to be drawn--however the difference in power allows my RV to get to the point where the electric heaters cycle sooner. As I use multiple heaters of various wattage, and limit my demand post autoformer to 24 amps, I've not had a pedestal breaker flip for many years.
I should have put that information in my post so thanks for jogging my mind.
Here is a list of all my heating type devices:
4 heated carpets (one in the pass through storage)
1 500 watt heater in the waste tanks area controlled by a mechanical thermostat set at about 4 c (41 f)
1 1500 watt "ceramic" type unit operated on 750 watt setting
1 radiant heater 900 watts operated on a 450 watt setting (used for thawing storage doors on compartments
1 mattress pad 100 watts (only once side used so 50 watts)
1 heating pad 50 watts low, medium and high settings.
1 12 volt heating blanket about 72 watts
2 oil filled 1500 watt heaters operated on the 600 watt setting
1 1200 watt fan based heater with no thermostat operated on the low setting (possibly 600 watts).
1 magnetic block heater that can be used on the propane tank, or on the Yamaha generator.
1 60 watt light bulb in the outside fridge access controlled by a thermocube to prevent gelling of the coolant media
1 water heater 1400 watts
1 240 volt 100 watt light bulb kept beside the water pump powered by 110 volts
1 50 watt heating rod which runs beside the water lines
1 27 watt fan that replaces the return air grill for the furnace which pressurize the heating duct work, keeping the water lines from freezing
(the three items above are controlled by a mechanical thermostat that sits beside an outside wall)
In addition cooking is done with microwave 1541 watts (what were they thinking), an induction Nuwave hob 1330 watts, toaster 850 watts, coffee maker 300 watts, a grill with removable plates so it can be a waffle maker, open grill, or clam shell 1200 watts.
There is a bit of waste heat from the inverter.
My peak load when it is in the -30ties is 7000 watts, and the average demand is 129 KWH per day. I can do that because I have a 50 amp break out box, equipped with one leg 30 amp outlet, and the other leg 2 20 amp outlets. (yes, I know it is not balanced.) I use that to power 1 15 amp auxiliary shore power cord, 1 20 amp auxiliary shore power cord, and the OEM 30 amp shore power cord.
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