Most reliable connector. semi 7 pin or RV blade ?

BigToe wrote:
Well, curiosity got the best of me, so I contacted Hopkins about the metal used in the connections of the Hopkins Endurance #48470 connector I was describing in the post above.

Turns out, they are NICKEL PLATED BRASS. The back end wire connections terminals as well as the inside the plug terminals on the front (blades and center pin of the 7 way, and all holes and ground pin of the integrated 4 and 5 ways) are all nickel plated brass. This is a very good thing. In fact, it is better than brass alone, and is more costly to produce.

As an example, I was recently shopping for triplex pressure pumps, and the nickel plated brass ones added a couple hundred dollars to the cost of an otherwise identical pump.Hi. I

Another feature that Hopkins made me aware of is that this is the only connector that has a 3 year warranty. I'm not big on warranties, but if you are, then there it is. Finally, the Hopkins guy was talking about how they were trying to break the door off of one of these connectors in the shop... just to see what it would take to do it. They couldn't manage to, he said, and they were "beatin on it".

I bought this connector when the spring in my current Pollack brand connector would not fully close the door. This would leave the inside of the connector exposed and vulnerable to tire flung water and road spray, as well as dirt from the vacuum created in the back of the vehicle when the vehicle is moving forward at highway speeds. I didn't like that, and wanted a door on the trailer connector to shut securely. This Hopkins connector did, and has a neoprene seal built into the door to boot.

However, when I started to remove my Pollack connector, I saw a way to fix my existing door, so I chose to do that instead. Now that I've seen this thread, and responded to this post, and learned more about the connector I already bought and planned to return... I think I'll keep it. It's a good unit, even if goofy looking. It meets the need for a robust no fuss trailer wiring connection, and eliminates the use of translators and adaptors for the 4 and 5 way connectors.

It comes with it's own metal mounting bracket and rear wire harness sealing boot as well.

Now THAT's over analysis for you. Any day, any time, any place, any subject... even one as small as a simple wiring harness connector that comes free on most vehicles... I'll outgun ya!

I'll take that challenge and raise you one.
The problem with the RV 7 pin connector is the trailer side plug.

There are two type of terminals used the trailer side plugs. One terminal is a split terminal with two contacts. This is the problem terminal.

The other terminal is the flat blade type. This is the good one.

The split terminal is not compatible with any of the receptacles used on the OEM trucks and almost all of the aftermarket.

The flat blade terminal on the trailer side plug is the one designed to work with receptacle on the truck.

Take a look at the truck side receptacle. It has a fold over pin that creates the spring function of the connection system. It is designed to mate to a flat blade terminal that inserts into the truck side with the retaining cavity surrounding it.

The RV connector is designed almost backwards compared to most connection systems.

When you use a split terminal on the trailer side you are trying to mate two female contacts together.

My opinion is Hopkins is the best RV connectors on the market. The construction is 260 brass with a nickel under plate finished in tin.
MM49

Well, curiosity got the best of me, so I contacted Hopkins about the metal used in the connections of the Hopkins Endurance #48470 connector I was describing in the post above.

Turns out, they are NICKEL PLATED BRASS. The back end wire connections terminals as well as the inside the plug terminals on the front (blades and center pin of the 7 way, and all holes and ground pin of the integrated 4 and 5 ways) are all nickel plated brass. This is a very good thing. In fact, it is better than brass alone, and is more costly to produce.

As an example, I was recently shopping for triplex pressure pumps, and the nickel plated brass ones added a couple hundred dollars to the cost of an otherwise identical pump.

Another feature that Hopkins made me aware of is that this is the only connector that has a 3 year warranty. I'm not big on warranties, but if you are, then there it is. Finally, the Hopkins guy was talking about how they were trying to break the door off of one of these connectors in the shop... just to see what it would take to do it. They couldn't manage to, he said, and they were "beatin on it".

I bought this connector when the spring in my current Pollack brand connector would not fully close the door. This would leave the inside of the connector exposed and vulnerable to tire flung water and road spray, as well as dirt from the vacuum created in the back of the vehicle when the vehicle is moving forward at highway speeds. I didn't like that, and wanted a door on the trailer connector to shut securely. This Hopkins connector did, and has a neoprene seal built into the door to boot.

However, when I started to remove my Pollack connector, I saw a way to fix my existing door, so I chose to do that instead. Now that I've seen this thread, and responded to this post, and learned more about the connector I already bought and planned to return... I think I'll keep it. It's a good unit, even if goofy looking. It meets the need for a robust no fuss trailer wiring connection, and eliminates the use of translators and adaptors for the 4 and 5 way connectors.

It comes with it's own metal mounting bracket and rear wire harness sealing boot as well.

Now THAT's over analysis for you. Any day, any time, any place, any subject... even one as small as a simple wiring harness connector that comes free on most vehicles... I'll outgun ya!

The endurance plug does actually hold up WAYYYY better than most. I have a 7-way on the front of my van (for the dirt bike carrier) and a standard plug would get broken in weeks. I've had the Endurance plug on there for almost two years now, and it's still intact.

30 years ago, Ford pick up trucks were equipped from the factory with 7 way ROUND PIN Pollack connectors, similar to the big trucks. I don't recall how they were wired though. Also 30 years ago, a lot of trailers were equipped with smaller diameter 6 way round pin connectors. A lot of confusion and a lot of hassle monkeying around to make everything work right.

At some point during the last quarter century, the RV industry seemed to universally standardize on the 7 way flat blade. All the vehicle OEM's began equipping their trucks and SUV's with the 7 way flat blade, if they offered a tow package.

I too, liked the older style all metal 7 way (and 9 way) round pin connectors with their anti kinking spring on the cables, and more robust construction overall. However, these types of connectors are not standard on RV and cargo trailers. They are simply not found. And no pick up truck manufacturer equips their vehicles with the older round pins either.

Given the risk that at some point, some other vehicle besides yours may need to move your trailer, the detriment of being different outweighs any perceived benefit of the more "robust" type of connectors. I'd stick with 7 way flat.

Hopkins, a brand available virtually in all automotive parts stores, including the big box chains like Pep Boys, OReilly's, Autozone, CarQuest, Napa, and the like, has what they market as an "ENDURANCE" line of vehicle connectors.

The specific model number is #48470, and it includes not only a 7 way flat RV blade, it also has a 4 way AND a 5 way flat universal plug integrated underneath. Both female receptacles have sturdy, tight fitting weather proof covers. The spring on the self closing 7 way flip up door is completely encapsulated on the hinge axis, unlike most door springs that are exposed and end up rusting. This enclosed return spring has a closure snap strong enough to put a decent bruise in your finger if you don't get your fingers out of the way.

The connector visually does have a goofy looking design... with an industrial looking hexagonal shape reminiscent of the "built Ford tough" commercials where you see the Ford logo slam shut and bolts turning nonsense. Don't worry, there is nothing Ford-esqe about this Hopkins connector, for you Dodge and Chevy diehards. I'm just using Ford's older commercials as an example of lame advertising and design that attempts to communicate industrial toughness but in the end only conveys a condescending attitude toward the consumer, who is given no credit for having intelligence to see the gimmicks as what they are... fluff that gets in the way of understanding the product.

Such is the style of this Hopkins connector. Despite it's cheesy looking Droid like so called "industrial" looking design, it really does have the most robust lifting door, as well as the longest supporting tube to hold the trailer connector in place. It also has the most compact face for having a 7 Way, a 5 Way, and a 4 Way connection capacity all integrated into one connector.

Getting back to the lifting door... it is the only door that I'm aware of that lifts up a full 180 degrees, so you can really swing it up out of the way to engage the trailer connector without bending so far down to the ground, if that is an issue for you. (I always squat down on my haunches anyway to engage chains and safety brake, but I can still appreciate this full swing door feature).

On the back end, the wire terminals do not appear to be brass... (unless they are nickel plated brass). I cannot report if this is a good or bad thing, because I do not know what type of metal these terminals are made of. I'm tempted to contact Hopkins to ask, as corrosion of wire terminals at their connections due to dissimilar metals is an important issue.

If I remember, I'll contact the company and report back. I have one of these units on my desk right now, unopened in the package. Expect to pay around $29.99.

PS... and you thought YOU overanalyzed everything? HA! :)

BarneyS wrote:
I don't quite understand the dislike of the standard connector. I have been towing trailers for quite a few years and have never had a single problem come up due to the connector between the trailer and the truck. I think the majority of the members on this forum would probably say the same. I think you are making a mountain out of a molehill. :W
Barney

Yes I over analyze everything.
I did also say the 7 blade design works fine, but I just cant bring myself to drilling a 2" hole in my bumper. It would stand out like a sore thumb compared to the ball cut out area on heavy duty bumpers like downtheroad has above. A smaller SAE J560 connector could just hang like my flat 4 pin and tuck it away with a zip tie underneath when not in use.

There are different companies selling the RV 7 blade couplers. I have always had excellent service out of Pollock couplers. You do have to watch and be careful to find the ones using brass for the prongs and recepticals. My gooseneck has never been stored inside, the chord and connector hang out in the weather, and it is 8 years old now. Still makes perfect contact every time.

I don't quite understand the dislike of the standard connector. I have been towing trailers for quite a few years and have never had a single problem come up due to the connector between the trailer and the truck. I think the majority of the members on this forum would probably say the same. I think you are making a mountain out of a molehill. :W
Barney

rerod wrote:

So I'm guessing all the cheesy (sorry) 7 blade connectors are the universal standard any towing company would have?
.

Yes, it is. Make an adapter, otherwise there's a god chance you'll be facing some extra charges if you do need a tow. OSP won't allow a trailer to sit on the shoulder. Towing company would have to send an extra escort vehicle if they could hook up the lights.

Heavy towing companies will have a SAE 7-way (the commercial round pin socket) but the functions won't be the same. If you plugged your trailer into a truck socket, you won't have brake lights, and anytime the truck braked, it would send full power to the trailer brakes.

http://www.hella.com/MicroSite/soe/sites/default/files/downloads/J00271_Elekt_Steckverbindungen_EN_HKG.pdf

Some really good stuff here (and page runs slow) but to me it boils down to making a connection and conducting elec. Stop in at 2 or 3 auto part stores and see what you can buy off the shelf. What you find on the shelf will be what 90 percent of public is buying.

path1 wrote:
I Had both.

So my advice is whatever you do, make sure it is universal so anybody can plug electrical cord in case somebody has to tow your rig for some reason.
After that I made up adapters that would fit just about anything, in case I ever needed a tow again or could tow other trailers if need be.

Thanks for pointing out your real life situation path1.
I wouldn't want to have to experience that myself.

So I'm guessing all the cheesy (sorry) 7 blade connectors are the universal standard any towing company would have?

I think I will order the ISO 3731 commercial style for its smaller bumper hole dia and cast aluminum construction. I also like the one pin which is a reversed socket for the fact not anyone could hook on with lights. Then make a adapter or two..

Now looking.. Do they sell the male end? Or is ISO 3731 only available pre-made male to male?

Thanks again.