New Andersen WD hitch

comments in blue embedded below

JBarca wrote:

BenK wrote:


Then the friction material and the taper of the ball shank will also get worked Since not held in with a nut and the normal approx 500 ft/lbs, how much is there via that clevis pin? I'd assume next to nothing, as that first video shows it just drop off when the tension and pin is removed.

The only sway control is the friction material. On a traditional WD with cams will have both the increase in WD forces and resistance to that side to side by both the pull and compression of the cam on the bar end.

Hi Ben,

I totally agree the ball coupler area is one of concern and the urethane spring brackets. See page 4 for my response. I saw the "light" that the latch has issues with this setup. You where correct on this.

Not arguing, so no right or wrong...just opinions on
something that has little to no specifications to base opinions on

Now to the clevis pin. That pin is intended to be a "key" so to speak to connect the ball shank to the chain plate and drive the chain plate as the WD chains push pull it with the spring action. The pin is also a safety so the tow ball does not fly up and out.

They actually have a bunch of force pressing the tow ball shank into the friction material. I see 2 sets of forces pushing the tow ball shank into the friction material.

1. The dead weight of the TT tongue pushing down. If it is 1,000# TW then they have at least 1,000# pushing on the shank on a shllow taper creating grip. This force will vary pending the TW.

Yes, but that is only in the static condition. In a dynamic
condition during the ride, there are who'd-does with will unweight
and even go negative that the bottom plate/clevis pin must contain

The more movement, the more wear and tear (wollow out that tappered
hole) over time

2. The WD forces acting on the tow ball shank. When they pull on the bottom of the tow ball they are creating a very large torque into the tow ball shank, thru the friction materiel and then into the tapered shank socket. This is a large force pushing the shank into the friction material. The more WD the higher the force.

Don't see this as torque on the axis of the ball shank, but beam action no the shank, which becomes a rod with bending forces

Don't see how there is any forces from the bottom plate & clevis pin
holding the ball shank on. Just the dead weight of the tongue

I can see how that can create a bunch of grip to help ward off sway forces acting on the TT.

The tow ball rotates very little to almost nothing. That is why they do not need grease on it plus it may have the Anderson low friction coating on the top of the ball. The only rotation is the small movement of rotation from the tension in the WD chains changing. The 2 chains find equilibrium once the ball slips once.

I think the setup can assist in helping control sway if the WD part and ball coupler area does not create large issues which is yet to be sorted out.

That is by design that the ball rotates along with the trailers
tongue. As the way the bottom chain plate if fastened and loaded

That is also how they apply friction to that motion and is their
anti-sway mechanism

It is the friction from the differential between the ball shank's
rotation vs the friction material in the tapered hole

As far as the tow ball rocking back and forth, well it depends on the WD chains forces who wins. See page 4. There is a lot of dynamics going on as to if the chains are towing the camper or the tow ball is.

I see that bushing force winning some, losing some to the pull
and braking forces.

That will wobble the shank in the tapered hole to wallow it out

A lot depends on the friction material. Since they say: "proprietary"
stuff, wonder if marketing or real. Marketing might be that it is in
a custom shape that no other has, or really is material science stuff

There are stress raisers on the tapered hole (metal) and assume complimentary
on the friction material. That is not helpful if there is going to
be a lot of none rotational movement between that and the ball shank

From pounding it out of shape (compression) to cracking to both

Then the latch/pawl assembly...any of this type of movement is not
good for it and as Bryan noted, side closure couplers are the norm
for that kind of service or pintle's

All this is to appease their goal of easier uncoupling a horse trailer
WD Hitch system

I'd go about it another way at the way the bar end links/chains are
tensioned/un-tensioned

Once un-tensioned, just pull out the receiver pin and drive off leaving
the hitch system on the ball & tongue/coupler. Hooking back up the
reverse, but maybe a tapered hitch shank end to poke into the receiver
pin box easier.

A screw system and a supplied cordless or corded high torque drill
motor to tension and un-tension the bar end links.

Still have to use the tongue jack just like their system.

PS...a very fun thread for me...love this type of discussion and
would be fun to see what other types of cool tools John has...
on another thread expected John to pull out a granite table... :)