New to Dingy Towing - Need help?

gmatti wrote:
We recently traded our Dually and 5th Wheel for a 32' Class C Mini-Motorhome. Of course now we are faced with towing a "toad" and do we go 4 down or dolly? When I try to analyze which is best they come out pretty much even but maybe I am missing something?
It seems that the costs are about $1,600 for a dolly vs about $4,500-5,000 for parts and hook up for flat tow. My F-150 is probably a little heavy to tow and my wife's Volvo is completely untowable at least according to her owners manual. We also have a 2004 Buick Century that weighs about 3,400 but the manual says no flat towing. So it appears we either need to trade the wife's Volvo for something that can be flat towed or go the dolly route. It seems to me that the dolly route might be better anyway considering the costs difference and the utility of the dolly for any vehicle that can be dolly towed. Here are some of my questions:
1. When dolly towing are the lights on the dolly sufficient or do we need additional lights on the vehicle being towed?
2. Surge brakes or electric brakes?
3. Do we need a brake controller in the vehicle being towed?
4. If we always go for pull-thru sites is storing the dolly really an issue?
5. Should we can the whole "toad" idea and just get a scooter to carry on the back of the motorhome?
We are probably missing something so any help will be appreciated. Thank you, Jerry

let me take a whack at this.

1) If by 'sufficient' you mean legal that will depend on the state. while we don't tow on a dolly when we looked into that option back in '03 we decided that having extra magnetic lights on the back of the toad was not a bad thing.

2) I prefer a brake system that utilizes the toad's own power brake system and which is not dependent on a cigarette lighter plug for power. we use the Unified Tow Brake from US Gear.

4) The dolly will always be at least a minor issue. with a long enough pull thru you should be able to back the toad off the dolly and leave the dolly attached to the MH.

5) I wouldn't. Scooters are fine in their place but you may run into situations where you'll wish you had doors and a roof.

weight is your enemy and a dolly will add weight. in my opinion before you do anything you need to determine the GVWR, GCWR and GAWR's of your class C. pay special attention to the gross axle weight ratings. then load up your class C as you would for a trip...food, fuel, water, LP, supplies, clothing, pets, people and other stuff...and take it to a certified scale. get individual axle weights.

next, compare the individual axle weights to the GAWR for each axle. as long as the axle weights are less then or equal to the GAWR you'll be good to go otherwise you'll need to offload weight from that axle.
the sum of the GAWRs should be less than or equal to the GVWR.

next, determine the weight rating of your hitch...it's likely to be rated at 5000-lbs but double check.

now you're ready to determine how much weight you can safely tow. in general, the maximum amount of weight you can safely tow will be the lesser of the following:

* the GCWR (gross combination weight rating) of the MH minus the actual weight of the MH as it is loaded for travel (includes fuel, fresh water, food, clothing, people, pets, supplies, etc.)

* the weight rating of your tow bar

* the weight rating of your hitch

good luck.

rr2254545 wrote:
4 down is the only way to go, the cost to set up a 4 down is more like 3,000 professionally done
.

it is pretty much a one time expense. folks don't bat an eye paying $6,000 for FBP which is primarily an ego thing IMHO.
bumpy

The first thing you need to know is the towing capacity of your Class C....many are only 3500 lbs, and I don't think any are more than 5000 lbs. So consider the weight of the toad and the dolly (if you go that route). Of course, flat towing will eliminate the dolly's weight.

I'm not sure where you're getting the $$ figure for flat towing, it shouldn't be any where close to $4500 - $5000. Base plate, tow bar, light kit, and a supplemental brake system should only run about $3000 and if you're the least bit handy with tools, installation (in most cases) is not difficult at all. Many of the required items can be picked up for much less through ebay or craigslist.

Be aware that only FWD should be dolly towed or vehicles that can be flat towed. Most all of RWD vehicles cannot be dolly towed.

I don't have a dolly, so I can't answer any of your dolly questions...sorry.

Good luck with what ever you decide.

Ron

4 down is the only way to go, the cost to set up a 4 down is more like 3,000 professionally done

Remember when using a dolly you have to crawl on the ground to secure the straps that hold the wheels on the dclly -

Always getting a pull through site is problematic and also more costly than back in sites.