Hi everyone. I just upgraded my tow vehicle to a 2017 F350 crew cab 6.2L. I have a 33’ Keystone Bullet TT with a loaded weight of around 7,200lbs. The tongue weight is around 900lbs. I’ve pulled it with a 2007 F150, but this new 1-ton sits quite a bit higher. My Reese SC hitch allows me adequate rise/drop, but I’m right in between my settings. My trailer coupler perfectly leveled measures 27 5/8” to the top of the coupler. At the lowest *rise* adjustment, I measure 29” to the top of the hitch ball (hitch ball is around 1.5” higher than the coupler). At the highest *drop* adjustment, the hitch ball measures almost exactly the same height as the coupler (27.75”). These are the numbers when unhitched. I can tilt the ball up or down to add/subtract a 1/2” if needed. Since my truck is plenty powerful for this trailer, I’m not worried about anything other than sway. Would you guys recommend just keeping the hitch ball and coupler at the same height, or should on be 1-1.5” higher than the other? Thanks.

I believe you will want it level or very slightly nose down for optimal towing.

Thanks, that what I figured. In the drop position, I can lower the hitch ball another 1” and come in slightly lower than the coupler. It’s even right now, and the difference will probably be negligible.More feedback is welcome and appreciated.

The trailer should be level or slightly nose down when set up for traveling. That is with the trailer hitched to the truck and any weight distributing bars engaged. The measurements unhitched give you a rough starting point. I doubt that a 350 will drop much but it will drop some so I would start with the higher ball setting and see if the trailer is level or slightly nose down when ready to tow.

I agree with others; level or slightly down.

Thanks guys. So unhitched, would you start with a baseline of hitch and coupler being the same height?

New tow vehicle: hitch height question | Good Sam Community

14 Replies

BarneyS
Nomad
Sep 06, 2018
Durb wrote:
I had a Reese SC years ago. As I recall, you want to chose a position on your shank so that the trailer sits close to level. I would prefer a position which is 1/2" low rather than 1 1/2" too high. Measure your hitch height unloaded and install the trailer. Adjust your spring bar tension by tilting the ball head down (increasing spring tension) so that your hitch height is 1/2" down from unloaded height. I believe this is how the manual instructed me. This process worked well for me towing 6,000# with a Nissan Titan, never any sway.

I'm sorry but the manual did not advise you to level your trailer by using the WD spring bars. You level the trailer by the position of the hitch head on the shank. The spring bars are for restoring lost weight from the front axle of the truck. If this process raises the back of the truck a bit then you adjust the hitch head position on the shank again until the trailer is as level as you can get it. This is probably what you were trying to get across in your post above. The tilt on the hitch head is for pre-tensioning the spring bars - not for leveling purposes.

The whole process is a trial and error type of thing. You adjust one and check. Adjust another and check again etc. It takes time to set it up correctly which is why most dealers do not get it right and it is up to us to make everything work well together.
Barney
Durb
Explorer
Sep 06, 2018
I had a Reese SC years ago. As I recall, you want to chose a position on your shank so that the trailer sits close to level. I would prefer a position which is 1/2" low rather than 1 1/2" too high. Measure your hitch height unloaded and install the trailer. Adjust your spring bar tension by tilting the ball head down (increasing spring tension) so that your hitch height is 1/2" down from unloaded height. I believe this is how the manual instructed me. This process worked well for me towing 6,000# with a Nissan Titan, never any sway.
bobbyg123
Explorer
Sep 04, 2018
Yes, I will be using w/d bars. I'm going to tinker with the setup tonight. I store my rig offsite, which is why I'm asking about baseline height measurements.

I'm going to start with the hitch maybe 1/2" above the trailer coupler (unhitched). I figure if I'm completely hitched up with the W/D bars and there's only 1" or less of decline (trailer nose down), that should be good enough.

I'm somewhat caught in the middle here. As I mentioned previously, my drop shank will either have to be at the highest DROP setting (the inverted L pointing down), or at the lowest rise setting. If I configure it for the rise setting, then my hitch will be a full 1.5" above the trailer coupler (unhitched). I'm not sure that with the W/D bars, there will be 2" of sag. I'd rather the nose of the trailer point down than point up.

We'll see tonight! Thanks guys.
hawkeye-08
Explorer III
Sep 04, 2018
sometimes you can fine tune using a hitch ball with a rise.. https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Hitch_Ball-sf-Trailer_Hitch_Ball-pt-Hi~Rise_Ball.aspx
DutchmenSport
Explorer
Sep 03, 2018
Just an FYI, if you add weight distribution bars, you might not have very much drop at all.

I have 3500 dully Chevy and when I hitch my TT without the bars, the hitch will drop 2 inches with the full weight of the trailer on the hitch. After I put the WD bars on, it raises back up almost to that same 2 inch mark, and front and back of trailer and truck are level.

What I'm suggesting is, if you plan on weight distribution, get the height of the top of the hitch ball adjusted, based on where everything sits after you are completely hitched (with the WD bars on, IF you are planning on using them).
BenK
Explorer
Sep 03, 2018
Too many variables...both with your vehicle/setup vs others to make a one size fits all basis

Final orientation is the best to talk about and then let the OP work it backwards to their starting point...

The FINAL setup orientation should have the TV drop/loaded/etc as per their TV's manual

The trailer should be level at it's highest pointing and recommend pointing slightly down

The tongue weight should be in the 12% to 15% of the trailers ACTUAL weight

How to get there has many, many, many avenues/choices/etc...those variables...

Like how much will the TV's tail drop...dependent on the tongue weight and the TV's rear suspension. Same trailer tongue will have a lower class TV drop lots...while a higher class TV will drop some to not even anything noticeable...it depends...

Then the WD system and all of their variables (dials, knobs, etc)
wgriswold
Explorer
Sep 03, 2018
bobbyg123 wrote:
I expect there to be some drop, but how much is too much? If I start with the hitch ball 1” higher and it drops some, that would be close to level. Isn’t the goal to be slightly nose down by maybe an inch?

I think you have to experiment. Try one or the other and adjust accordingly.

Everything I read indicates that level to slightly down is OK, nose up is not.
bobbyg123
Explorer
Sep 03, 2018
I expect there to be some drop, but how much is too much? If I start with the hitch ball 1” higher and it drops some, that would be close to level. Isn’t the goal to be slightly nose down by maybe an inch?
wgriswold
Explorer
Sep 03, 2018
bobbyg123 wrote:
Thanks guys. So unhitched, would you start with a baseline of hitch and coupler being the same height?

Every situation is different but there will be some drop when the trailer tongue weight is on the ball. No one knows how much. It is a process of trial and error. I would start with the ball 1" higher than the coupler.
bobbyg123
Explorer
Sep 03, 2018
Thanks guys. So unhitched, would you start with a baseline of hitch and coupler being the same height?