I have a new 32’ TT (35’ total) with GVWR of 9858 and a sticker weight of 7,386. The measured tongue weight when TT is level with 49 gal of fresh water in it is approx 910 lbs.I was able to get the WD system set up so there’s no change in the 2002 PSD Excursion front fender height and a 1” drop in the rear fender height with the existing bars and the TT level (using a level on the frame vs measuring front/rear). I realize this needs to be done again if there’s a bar change and/or after loading stuff up.I have yet to get to some scales to get the actual weight. It’s on the TODO list. ok, so on to the question….My current system is a Reese WD setup with a 1,200 lb shank and 800 lb WD bars. there’s no rating on the head. Given the measured tongue weight, it looks like I need to get new bars and based on additional reading, it seems like it’s strongly recommended to install an anti-sway system as well.Before investing in new bars and something like a dual cam setup, I wanted to see if I should be considering pitching the head and shank and starting from scratch or should I just upgrade the bars? It seems like bars and dual cam will be about $360-$400 and I’d hate to find out I should have gone with a different solution for $500-600 after upgrading my existing parts. I also don’t know if I have or need “heavy duty” chain lifts which would put me closer to $500 to upgrade.Also, I read somewhere (but could not find it) that at least one person was of the opinion that the quality of the dual cam system may have gone down to do moving manufacturing offshore. I’m interested in feedback on that “issue” as well.Finally, is it a common practice to upgrade bars, should I be calling around to local shops to see if I can trade them in for an upgrade?Thank you in advance for any advice.

WelcomeNote: We like picturesSome hitches, you can upgrade just the bars. Don't know if yours is one of them.Sounds like the shank is good to go. Look at the hitch head and ball.Is the head configured for sway bar installation?Is the head rated at least 1200 lbs?Is the ball rated for 10 - 12000 lbs?You might find the cost, to replace individual pieces (if your hitch can be upgraded), is almost as high as buying a new hitch.Note: We like picturesI'll send you a PM

That is a tuff call from where I am sitting but....If that is the loaded for camping tongue weight you might be ok with the size bars you have. If they allow you to transfer the weight back to the front end of the tow rig, Take it out for a drive and see if you get a lot of front to back rocking. If it rides ok and you can transfer weight ok, you should be fine. Sway control, well I use the dual-cam system and like it. With that long a trailer you should be using some kind of sway control either two friction type bars or one of the integrated systems. If you go with the dual-cam system, I think going to the next size bars would be a good choice since you will be replacing them anyway.

handye9 wrote:Is the head configured for sway bar installation?Not that I can tell, but I don't know what to look for.handye9 wrote:Is the head rated at least 1200 lbs?I'm not sure, there's no writing on the head that I can see other than a "C" and some "dots" (see photo).handye9 wrote:Is the ball rated for 10 - 12000 lbs?Yes, see photo.Here's the head:handye9 wrote:You might find the cost, to replace individual pieces (if your hitch can be upgraded), is almost as high as buying a new hitch.Yes, it seems to add up fast!Bob/Olallawa wrote:If that is the loaded for camping tongue weight you might be ok with the size bars you have. ... If you go with the dual-cam system, I think going to the next size bars would be a good choice since you will be replacing them anyway.It's not really loaded for camping yet. Gas is close to full, but no tools clothes, etc yet. I suspect I'll be closer to 1,000 when all is said and done. I was concerned about having a bar break. If I re-use my head, I have to buy the bars and cam setup separately as far as I can see. So, in theory, I can just get the sway control. However, I'm not sure how safe it would be to just give the 800 lb bars a shot...

If in fact your tongue weight goes up more when you are at loaded for camping weight, I would upgrade the bar weight rating as you are very close now. Bars breaking, only heard of a couple cases of that ever happening if the rating is anywhere close, usually to low weight rating doesn't allow to transfer weight back to front end of tow rig and over flexing causes excess front to rear rocking of trailer on rough road areas like bridge ends or dips in driving lane.

Looking at the pictures, it appears the hitch head and ball are good to go. The head is configured for a single sway bar.Maybe, a sway bar and upgraded trunion bars, will do the job.

New TT, Upgrade the Reese? | Good Sam Community

Road_Ruler
Explorer
Sep 16, 2013
With that TV and a 35' trailer you really need to be using a Hensley or ProPride.
neschultz
Explorer
Sep 16, 2013
I recently replaced my Reese with a Blue Ox sway pro. It doesn't need sway bars and is a lot easier to install and take off. The bad news is that I recently discovered one of the bars was bent after about 800 (total) miles of towing with it. When I called Blue Ox, they think it could only be due to a material defect and immediately sent me two replacements in case the other one is going to go bad. I haven't had a chance to use them but do appreciate the excellent customer service.
Bob_Olallawa
Explorer
Sep 16, 2013
Stiffer bars than needed increases the harshness of the ride for both the trailer and the tow rig. Some lightweight trailers have been damaged from using too heavy bars, Airstream rigs are one that did have problems. I am using 1,500 lb bars but my tongue weight is around 1,400 lbs. The bars do need to flex a bit when going over dips or bumps in the road so don't go too much over the loaded tongue weight. Maybe the 1,200 lb set would be good if you end up around 1,000 lbs of tongue weight.
fla-gypsy
Explorer
Sep 16, 2013
The head and ball are good, upgrade to 1200# bars, going higher offers no benefit and may be harmful to the ride or components IMO. The Dual Cam system is a superior integrated system that offers great control and performance
mrekim
Explorer
Sep 16, 2013
Sounds like dual cam is the way to go.

If I end up buying new bars, does it make sense to go for 1500 lb bars?

The 1500 lb bar is supposed to be good for 800-1500 lbs. I assume the stiffer bar will give more links on the chain, but what are the drawbacks to having stiffer bars?
Bob_Olallawa
Explorer
Sep 16, 2013
My opinion, yes the dual cam is a much better system than two friction sway bars and with the length of your trailer you really need two rather than one friction bar. You will never know for sure until you need them but then is not the time to wish you had better sway control.
The problem with the dual cam system is, set up can be a problem with a top of frame mounted ball latch and 6 inch frame rails. use 5 links of chain under pressure minimum for clearance. The newer ones are a bit easier to set up than the older ones. I needed to use a raised ball and full head tilt to get good clearance. There are good videos and threads on set up to follow.
mrekim
Explorer
Sep 16, 2013
handye9 wrote:
Looking at the pictures, it appears the hitch head and ball are good to go. The head is configured for a single sway bar.

Maybe, a sway bar and upgraded trunion bars, will do the job.

I never even considered a single sway bar. I got the impression they were only for small trailers or for some reason not a desirable solution. If I upgrade the trunion bars and get everything dialed in is there some way to determine if a single sway bar will get the job done?

Bob/Olallawa wrote:
E-trailer has most everything you would need for the dual-cam system and should be free shipping. If you use the friction sway bars you can have another small ball plate welded to the other side of that hitch head if you want to use two sway bars.

Yes, E-Trailer seems like a good source for parts, that's how I determined the cost to upgrade parts.

I suspect that once I pay for welding that the cost of the sway bar will approach the dual cam cost. If it's likely that I will need two sway bars then for an extra $50 is the dual cam a much better solution.

[EDIT] found this looking at sway bar:
For trailers exceeding 26' long use two friction sway controls or dual cam sway control

So it seems like I should assume 2 are needed?
[/EDIT]

Also, are these heads heat treated in any way?
Bob_Olallawa
Explorer
Sep 16, 2013
E-trailer has most everything you would need for the dual-cam system and should be free shipping. If you use the friction sway bars you can have another small ball plate welded to the other side of that hitch head if you want to use two sway bars.
handye9
Explorer II
Sep 16, 2013
Looking at the pictures, it appears the hitch head and ball are good to go. The head is configured for a single sway bar.

Maybe, a sway bar and upgraded trunion bars, will do the job.
Bob_Olallawa
Explorer
Sep 16, 2013
If in fact your tongue weight goes up more when you are at loaded for camping weight, I would upgrade the bar weight rating as you are very close now. Bars breaking, only heard of a couple cases of that ever happening if the rating is anywhere close, usually to low weight rating doesn't allow to transfer weight back to front end of tow rig and over flexing causes excess front to rear rocking of trailer on rough road areas like bridge ends or dips in driving lane.

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