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DutchmenSport's avatar
Aug 02, 2016

On Board Water Pump Question?

I've read posts about this before, but when searching can't land on any of them now. I'm looking for answers, if anyone else experienced this, what was YOUR cause.

Ever since we've owned our Outback (3 years now), the water pump turns on for a split second, pressurizing the lines and then shuts off just that quick.

For the last couple years, I thought it was because I don't tighten my water heater anode rod real tight and it does drip a little sometimes. Then I though it was the pressure relief valve on the water heater because the water heater is extremely hot. But here lately, the area around the water heater has been bone dry.

Now, I have narrowed it down to this. First, I am not connected to City Water. I run only off the water pump and fresh water. So no hoses connected.

Second, it happens ONLY when the water heater is turned on and hot. If the water heater is not on (cold) it never happens. And I've tested this out, several times now.

Next, I'm not loosing water anywhere. There are no leaks, the toilet is not filling up, the holding tanks don't fill up or anything, and it appears there is absolutely no usage from the fresh water tank.

I have noticed in the last few weeks, the pump will run for a split second and then shut off a bit more now than it use to. It's becoming more frequent. I notice it at night especially. Since we are camping in our back yard right now, sleeping in it every night, and sometimes have the water heater on, and sometimes off. This is when I really noticed the difference.

The other thought I had was the water pressure was increasing with the heat from the water heater, causing the water pump to leak backwards. But then that doesn't make a lot of sense either, because the water pump then attempts to turn on and pressurize again.

So, this one has me stumped. So figured after 3 years, I'd finally ask the question.

Remember, there are no leaks ... anywhere. The water heater is bone dry, the pressure relief valve is not popping. And it only does it when the water heater is on and hot.

Any suggestions?
  • Completely drain the water heater and refill. The air pocket at the top acts as an accumulator, reducing cycling.

    Info
  • Old-Biscuit wrote:
    You have a very small leak......small leak at a fitting on low point drain line...


    Good observation. The low point drains are the one thing I've not considered. Still, if it was a leak, why does the pump cycle "only" when the water heater is on and water is hot. When cold, it doesn't do this. I would think the pressure would be the same with hot or cold water in the tank? Also, I've not noticed any loss of fresh water in the fresh water tank. Still, I'll check those low point drains. I am a firm believer in taking the least evasive action first. This one is simple to check. This does make sense, I have checked every nook and cranney. I've not found any leaks inside, no drips under the trailer, and no wet spots on the floor, or anywhere, except the low point??? Never thought of that. Still, only when water heater is hot... still puzzled. .. Thanks.

    We're doing too much camping right now to mess with the water pump itself for that check valve. Once camping season slows down I'll check that out. I don't want to end up screwing something up and then have the camper out of commission while I figure out how to fix something I messed up. If the low point isn't the problem, check-valve is next.

    Thanks again.
  • You have a very small leak......

    System will NOT lose pressure unless you have a leak

    Your description points to pump internal check valve leaking just enough for system pressure to drop to start set point (typically 30# if you have a 45# pump or 40# if you have a 55# pump)
    Pump only runs momentarily because it doesn't take much to increase static line pressure to stop set point.

    Course it could be a small leak at a hidden fitting also.

    I had same issue (short pump cycling) and searched high/low for leak.
    I even put toilet paper under/around all suspect places.

    Then one day I needed to remove a panel to run a cable for a display and there it was.....small leak at a fitting on low point drain line.
    If we hadn't been in a place with HARD water I probably would still be wondering where/what it was. Fitting had white calcium deposit.
    Cleaned it up.tighten........no more pump 'burrruuup'
  • Every RV I have owned, 6 total over several decades, have done what you describe. I have never had the expectation that the water pump can maintain 40+ lbs. pressure without momentarily activating. Loosing a minute amount of pressure over time is a given...nothing is completely air tight.
  • The water heater not withstanding I had the same problem. The pump would run for an extremely short burst every now and then. I had no leaks. I replaced the check valve inside the pump body and the problem went away. That was many years ago. It was a cheap part and a quick fix.
  • Get the small Shurflo accumulator. All closed water systems should have one IMO.

    Model Number 182-200

    I spent three years off and on tracking down an intermittent leak from excess pressure from water heater going full cold to full hot. Dealer could not find it either. Leak was actually in a fitting near the pump. Only leaked when water heater went from cold to hot with no water use. Eventually it go worse and I found it.
  • westend wrote:
    It's possible that water is returned back to the tank past the pump seals. This causes the lines to lose pressure and the pump will then come on to establish operating pressure.


    With all the facts you presented, this is the most logical explanation.
  • Check the City Water filled check valve. This can cause the loss of pressure when not hooked up.
  • It's possible that water is returned back to the tank past the pump seals. This causes the lines to lose pressure and the pump will then come on to establish operating pressure.

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