Hi folks.I'm starting to see oblongation occurring, and feeling too much slop when stopping/starting.I'm still using the GM Stock 2.5" receiver hitch.I'm very happy with the Reese Straitline Trunnion WD head.What I'm very tired of is the silly 2" -> 2 1/2" sleeve that I need to insert the Shank into, and then into the receiver.I'm also starting to experience the sleeve is stuck in the receiver. It is so bad that I need to tap it out with a hammer.This is telling me something is deforming the sleeve. Although I have always hated that stupid adapter! The WD system appears to be setup fine. The Trailer pulls fine, and the integrated sway works as expected.This is the third season on this sleeve, and I'm also experiencing much more slop that I used to.I'm actually considering to toss the Class V GM hitch, and installing a Class V 2" hitch.Thoughts?

Why don't you just get a 2-1/2 inch Drawbar and mount your current hitch to it?

wing_zealot wrote:Why don't you just get a 2-1/2 inch Drawbar and mount your current hitch to it?I would do exactly that if I could keep my Reese head.the Reese head is cast with a 2" channel to mount onto the shank.Ideally I would have a 2 1/2" shank into the receiver on the truck, and a 2" drop portion to mount the head to.

I believe that is the way all the 2 1/2 inch drawbars work. Check this out, you can clearly see a piece on each side to make the 1/2 inch difference while the drop part is smaller. clicky

wing_zealot wrote:I believe that is the way all the 2 1/2 inch drawbars work. Check this out, you can clearly see a piece on each side to make the 1/2 inch difference while the drop part is smaller. clickywell well well! You might be onto something here... You're right, I totally agree about the extra 1/4" either side of the receiver side of the shank.thanks very much. My time at etrailer was always in the "reese" product lineup, or "curt" for the hitch. I had not ventured into other product lines.this is likely the direction I will go.Thanks for your help and searching.

If there is slop at the reducer sleeve, and if I wanted to continue using the 2" drawbar, I'd get the welder out and weld that reducer to the receiver.

options for Slop Removal | Good Sam Community

SoCalDesertRid1
Explorer
Jun 30, 2016
The reducer sleeves don't have any reinforcement at the end, so they can stretch out at the end more easily than a standard hitch tube.
mkirsch
Nomad II
Jun 29, 2016
Get a new reducer sleeve for those other applications. Yours is wallowed out.

The problem with the reducer sleeves is they are much too short. Really they should cover the entire portion of the shank that is in the receiver.

I went and got a Curt 12" weldable receiver tube, and use that as my reducer sleeve. ZERO slop between my reducer and the receiver.
ctabailey
Explorer
Jun 29, 2016
I actually assumed he meant weld the adapter to the drawbar. But you all are right, on second look he did say he would weld the adapter to the receiver.

Hopefully my slop troubles will be over when my new Titan shank arrives.
SoCalDesertRid1
Explorer
Jun 28, 2016
Anything that has been welded in, can be cut out...
Ozlander
Explorer
Jun 28, 2016
camperforlife wrote:
Sport45 wrote:

He could always just remove the hitch before selling. How many would let a couple-hundred dollar hitch keep them from buying the truck they wanted?

True but if two similar trucks are available and one has the hitch you want and one doesn't which one will be sold first?

Actually, with no hitch, people might assume it had not been used for towing.
camperforlife
Explorer
Jun 28, 2016
Sport45 wrote:
camperforlife wrote:

I wouldn't buy a used truck that they welded the sleeve to the receiver since I run a hitch with a 2.5" shank. If you ever plan on trading the truck something to think about.

He could always just remove the hitch before selling. How many would let a couple-hundred dollar hitch keep them from buying the truck they wanted?

True but if two similar trucks are available and one has the hitch you want and one doesn't which one will be sold first?
Sport45
Explorer II
Jun 28, 2016
camperforlife wrote:
ctbailey wrote:
gmw photos wrote:
If there is slop at the reducer sleeve, and if I wanted to continue using the 2" drawbar, I'd get the welder out and weld that reducer to the receiver.

Nothing wrong with that approach! I'm keeping the reducer for the infrequent light weight tasks around the ranch with smaller drawbars, though.

Etrailer actually carries the "Titan" 2 1/2" shank, which reduces to the 2" drop section. I never would have realized without this forums' help. I've ordered it, and my problems hopefully will over.

thanks all!

I wouldn't buy a used truck that they welded the sleeve to the receiver since I run a hitch with a 2.5" shank. If you ever plan on trading the truck something to think about.

He could always just remove the hitch before selling. How many would let a couple-hundred dollar hitch keep them from buying the truck they wanted?
IDoMyOwnStunts
Explorer
Jun 28, 2016
With my setup I was thinking about buying an extra adapter sleeve and having a shop weld it to the WD shank instead of the receiver. That should fix the slop problem and preserve the 2 1/2" receiver for trade in.

I've heard the new Super Duties are coming with 3" receivers. Can you imagine the slop in adapting that? Hope they come with a direct 3-2 adapter instead of making you put one adapter inside another.
LIKE2BUILD
Explorer
Jun 27, 2016
ctbailey wrote:

I'm still using the GM Stock 2.5" receiver hitch.

I'm very happy with the Reese Straitline Trunnion WD head.

What I'm very tired of is the silly 2" -> 2 1/2" sleeve that I need to insert the Shank into, and then into the receiver.

I upgraded trucks last fall and needed a longer drop shank. At first I tried an adapter sleeve and hated it. The additive slop with both the shank and sleeve led to almost 1 1/2" of vertical play in my hitch head. I was not comfortable with that at all and ordered a new 2 1/2" drop shank from Etrailer. The new shank elimniated all of the excess slop.

KJ
camperforlife
Explorer
Jun 27, 2016
ctbailey wrote:
gmw photos wrote:
If there is slop at the reducer sleeve, and if I wanted to continue using the 2" drawbar, I'd get the welder out and weld that reducer to the receiver.

Nothing wrong with that approach! I'm keeping the reducer for the infrequent light weight tasks around the ranch with smaller drawbars, though.

Etrailer actually carries the "Titan" 2 1/2" shank, which reduces to the 2" drop section. I never would have realized without this forums' help. I've ordered it, and my problems hopefully will over.

thanks all!

I wouldn't buy a used truck that they welded the sleeve to the receiver since I run a hitch with a 2.5" shank. If you ever plan on trading the truck something to think about.

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