We're moving to a 32' Class A from our 23' Class C. The longer coach will make parking somewhat difficult on our property. The only way to make it work is to nose it in to the side yard a little (roughly 2'), which is just over 9' wide. This will pull the coach very close to the wooden fence we have. To avoid the possibility of grazing it and shredding paint off the coach, I was wondering if anyone had suggestions of something to do on that side of the wooden fence. While the right answer would be "don't hit it!" , its bound to happen once ... and I'd like to avoid an expense paint job as a course of that. Thanks for any suggestions you may have!-Mike

zonearc wrote:We're moving to a 32' Class A from our 23' Class C. The longer coach will make parking somewhat difficult on our property. The only way to make it work is to nose it in to the side yard a little (roughly 2'), which is just over 9' wide. This will pull the coach very close to the wooden fence we have. To avoid the possibility of grazing it and shredding paint off the coach, I was wondering if anyone had suggestions of something to do on that side of the wooden fence. While the right answer would be "don't hit it!" , its bound to happen once ... and I'd like to avoid an expense paint job as a course of that. Thanks for any suggestions you may have!-MikeMove the fence.

Will you be able to open the door to get out??? Oh and how about the mirrors?

The fence is the border of our driveway on the property so we cannot move it. The fence would go along the driver's side of the coach so we can get out the other side.

Use some landscape timbers to create a curb. That will help prevent you from drifting. However, the driver's side is right outside your rearview mirror, you really shouldn't have too many problems.

Make sure you measure carefully and include all the little protrusions like furnace vents and cargo bay door hold-opens and clearance lights. Often the published width of a vehicle excludes these things (and legal width limits generally also exclude them provided they're no more than a couple inches). Measured width also generally excludes the projection of the rear view mirrors, so if you're parallel to the fence, you will have trouble using the mirror to guide yourself unless it extends over the fence when unfurled. Also be alert to whether the ground is level; if it's tilted towards the fence, two inches at the ground could be a lot less at the top of the fence (particularly if the fence also isn't perfectly plumb).Basically, though, it's a matter of going sloooowly and cautiously and preferably having a competent spotter or two to help.On the positive side, you should soon have no trouble at all positioning yourself within the reach of the gas pumps!

Parking a Class A within 4" of a wooden fence | Good Sam Community

obgraham
Explorer
Oct 24, 2015
The unmentioned problem is that if you can't get the rig straight before backing in, and have to make any kind of turn, the swing will take up your 4 inches of clearance very quickly. So either it will fit or it won't. With a spotter, you'll learn quickly how to back it in if it will fit.
Dashonthedash
Explorer
Oct 24, 2015
Many places (including the community I live in) have a minimum distance that a vehicle may be parked from the property line. Please make sure you understand your local ordinances before making any modifications to your parking space.
CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Oct 24, 2015
Boat Fenders sounds like a good idea.

I was going to say get some of that foam pipe rap stuff and wrap it around the spots that will be the first to get hit. Then remove the pipe wrap and place throw it in the rv until next time you need to back in.
jwmII
Explorer
Oct 25, 2015
Boat fenders are worth a look. They are available in varying sizes.

Also! Are you old enough to remember the curb feelers that people had on their cars in the late forties and early fifties. I have not seen them in years. When they were around they worked quite well. They were basically a stiff steel wire or rod attached to the car so they would contact the curb when parallel parking. They emitted a harmonic sound that was unmistakable and kept the driver from hitting the curb and scuffing up their wide whitewalls. It wouldn't be that hard to make a set. Drag them down a wood fence and the effect would probably be similar to dragging them on a concrete curb.
ccxnola
Explorer
Oct 25, 2015
jwmll,
You must be dang well as old as I am!! YES - the 'curb feelers' were a MUST HAVE when driving your prize vehicle on the streets!!
(AND - they worked!!)
riven1950
Explorer
Oct 25, 2015
Just had a idea when someone mentioned boat fenders.Make your own. I made a version for my kayak rack so they would roll on the carrier. Mine was horizontal, your would be vertical. Cheaper than boat fenders.

Take small pvc pipe, maybe 1/2", bury it ( them ) in ground along fence, vertical of course. Glue a fitting on it for a stop at ground level. Take a larger pvc pipe, maybe 3/4", insert over the 1/2" pipe. Cover the 3/4" pipe with the soft rubber pipe insulation. If you happen to hit it the 3/4" pipe it will spin on the 1/2", rubber will protect your vehicle. When you are done you could remove the 3/4" pipe / insulation and store inside till next time.
zonearc
Explorer
Oct 25, 2015
Another really cool way to do it would be a padded wooden beam like they have for gymnasts. But, its likely just putting a beam by the tire will provide enough control.
4x4van
Explorer III
Oct 26, 2015
Wow, amazing all the suggestions to make something that will not damage the RV "when" you hit the fence. If I were that sure that I was going to hit something with my RV, parking my RV there would no longer even be an option. How about "not" hitting the fence?
Rollnhome
Explorer
Oct 26, 2015
I'd be more concerned about knocking the fence down.
valhalla360
Navigator
Oct 26, 2015
We split time on our boat. The fender idea isn't likely to help. At best it will push the fence over.

The railroad ties will only be helpful if you can get the rig perfectly straight before backing in. If there is any angle the 4" of space will easily be eaten up by the overhang. If you have it perfectly straight, you really don't really need guides.