Prodigy P2 Break Control
I am looking to replace my very old break controller. I have heard good things about the Prodigy P2. Anyone have anything to say, Pro or Con about it? Thank you all in advance.
Forum Discussion
All brake controllers, or most, has an input sense that tells it to
start braking
The P2/3 uses the brake pedal light switch that turns on the rear brake
lights. It also tells the computer that the driver wants braking
How much is the next decision
Some use the TV's MC's hydraulic PSI via a solid state fluid PSI sensor
tapped into the TV's hydraulic brake system. Normally at the MC area
The higher the PSI, the more voltage it sends to the trailer brakes for
more braking
Accelerometer based senses the amount of G forces generated by
deceleration...AKA braking
Then there is the 'boost' function, which is to have the trailer brakes
provide more initial braking than the TV is experiencing
The Boost function is variable and is what folks refer to as to
the setting by a number. Higher the number, the more boost
There is also a timing between all in this scheme of things. Key is
to have the trailer start to brake before the TV and the biggie, have
more braking than the TV throughout the event
How much is mainly via the boost function
Whenever I read of folks complaining about jerking, bucking, etc it
is telling to me that they do NOT have their whole braking setup
correctly or better to say dialed in for 'that' setup
All TV brake pedal has some dead play. Meaning nothing happens when
the pedal is pressed till after a certain amount of movement.
Then it will start to move the MC piston rod. That then moves the piston
to generate braking system hydraulic PSI
The brake hydraulic sensed will NOT see anything to start trailer
braking until it's sensor sees PSI, which then will have the boost
level dictate how much initial voltage is sent to the trailer brakes
Ditto the TV brake pedal switch sensed. Some brake pedal switches is
adjusted to have some amount of travel before the switch contact close.
Mainly to avoid false brake light, IMHO
On GM's, the brake pedal switch is different than the plunger type
(think door bell button) most have. The GM switch closes the contacts
after about 0.010" of travel or less.
Because of this, the trailer brakes are told to turn on BEFORE the TV
MC ever develops any PSI
There is a button/lever/etc on most trailer brake controllers that
tells the trailer brake controller to set the trailer brakes. This is
both to test during the drive the trailer brakes and in an emergency
On my GM TV and P3, can stop the whole thing without ever developing
any TV braking PSI. My P3 also has this lever, but not needed with
this brake switch. Just touching the TV brake pedal will turn on
the trailer brakes at whatever level my boost is set at
Again, key is to setup the trailer braking system to turn on before
the TV's by some amount of time
This will have no jerking, banging, etc
There is a fairly new trailer brake controller that uses the TV's
computer port.
So it will either be a MC PSI or pedal switch sensed...depending on
how 'that' TV's OEM computer system works or uses for a sensor
start braking
The P2/3 uses the brake pedal light switch that turns on the rear brake
lights. It also tells the computer that the driver wants braking
How much is the next decision
Some use the TV's MC's hydraulic PSI via a solid state fluid PSI sensor
tapped into the TV's hydraulic brake system. Normally at the MC area
The higher the PSI, the more voltage it sends to the trailer brakes for
more braking
Accelerometer based senses the amount of G forces generated by
deceleration...AKA braking
Then there is the 'boost' function, which is to have the trailer brakes
provide more initial braking than the TV is experiencing
The Boost function is variable and is what folks refer to as to
the setting by a number. Higher the number, the more boost
There is also a timing between all in this scheme of things. Key is
to have the trailer start to brake before the TV and the biggie, have
more braking than the TV throughout the event
How much is mainly via the boost function
Whenever I read of folks complaining about jerking, bucking, etc it
is telling to me that they do NOT have their whole braking setup
correctly or better to say dialed in for 'that' setup
All TV brake pedal has some dead play. Meaning nothing happens when
the pedal is pressed till after a certain amount of movement.
Then it will start to move the MC piston rod. That then moves the piston
to generate braking system hydraulic PSI
The brake hydraulic sensed will NOT see anything to start trailer
braking until it's sensor sees PSI, which then will have the boost
level dictate how much initial voltage is sent to the trailer brakes
Ditto the TV brake pedal switch sensed. Some brake pedal switches is
adjusted to have some amount of travel before the switch contact close.
Mainly to avoid false brake light, IMHO
On GM's, the brake pedal switch is different than the plunger type
(think door bell button) most have. The GM switch closes the contacts
after about 0.010" of travel or less.
Because of this, the trailer brakes are told to turn on BEFORE the TV
MC ever develops any PSI
There is a button/lever/etc on most trailer brake controllers that
tells the trailer brake controller to set the trailer brakes. This is
both to test during the drive the trailer brakes and in an emergency
On my GM TV and P3, can stop the whole thing without ever developing
any TV braking PSI. My P3 also has this lever, but not needed with
this brake switch. Just touching the TV brake pedal will turn on
the trailer brakes at whatever level my boost is set at
Again, key is to setup the trailer braking system to turn on before
the TV's by some amount of time
This will have no jerking, banging, etc
There is a fairly new trailer brake controller that uses the TV's
computer port.
So it will either be a MC PSI or pedal switch sensed...depending on
how 'that' TV's OEM computer system works or uses for a sensor
