Propane tank not really doing it?

Retired JSO wrote:
Depending on the regulator, pressure could be increased some by removing regulator cap and screwing down on the diaphragm spring. Never heard of a regulator reset.

Right?


Gary Haupt

Depending on the regulator, pressure could be increased some by removing regulator cap and screwing down on the diaphragm spring. Never heard of a regulator reset.

NRALIFR wrote:

garyhaupt wrote:
............ Reconnect the hose to your propane tank and slowly turn on the gas.Gary Haupt

That's the key, opening the valve slowly. Opening it too fast allows the LP to flow out into the hose in a rush, which trips the "Excess Flow Check-Valve".

The check-valve is the part in the center of the plastic nut (called an Acme nut, for the type of threads it has) on the tank end of the hose. When it's tripped, it allows just a trickle of gas through, which can confuse the situation in an RV, because your low-usage appliances like the fridge or the stove top may work, but the furnace won't. The color of the Acme nut indicates the amount of LP in BTU's the check-valve is rated to flow without tripping.

There's also a thermal bushing in the tank end of the hose that in a fire will melt, and allow the spring-loaded part of the OPD tank valve to push the excess-flow check valve on the hose out of the tank valve, shutting off the flow of gas entirely.

:):)

Good comment...stuff to know. Thanks


Gary

garyhaupt wrote:
............ Reconnect the hose to your propane tank and slowly turn on the gas.Gary Haupt

That's the key, opening the valve slowly. Opening it too fast allows the LP to flow out into the hose in a rush, which trips the "Excess Flow Check-Valve".

The check-valve is the part in the center of the plastic nut (called an Acme nut, for the type of threads it has) on the tank end of the hose. When it's tripped, it allows just a trickle of gas through, which can confuse the situation in an RV, because your low-usage appliances like the fridge or the stove top may work, but the furnace won't. The color of the Acme nut indicates the amount of LP in BTU's the check-valve is rated to flow without tripping.

There's also a thermal bushing in the tank end of the hose that in a fire will melt, and allow the spring-loaded part of the OPD tank valve to push the excess-flow check valve on the hose out of the tank valve, shutting off the flow of gas entirely.

:):)

My hose quit working altogether so I pulled the safety on the BBQ side, but the problem was on the other end and it refuses to allow more than an match glow out. So out to the trash...
(Edit iPhone spelling)

Or the anti leak valve in the pigtail from the tank to your regulator.

There are so many anti leak valves in propane systems now days I'm surprised the gas will flow at all.

Usually that is the anti-leak valve of the tank itself, not the regulator?

When you open the valve on your tank, open it very slowly. If you open it too quickly, it is supposed to shut off the gas flow. The fix is the same as you describe.