ProPride and lifted 3500

ApexAZ wrote:

n0arp wrote:

ApexAZ wrote:

blt2ski wrote:
Simple method to figure out you lower rating is old diam tire/new diam tire times rear ratio. (32/35)3.73 = 3.41 effective axel ratio.
If you were stock at 31", then you are down to a 3.3 effective ratio.
I'm assuming you have a DMAX with that high of a GCWR. Being as 3.73 is the only ratio, no way to tell where you really are per say now in comparison. SWG about 88% or 26,300 +/-.
Remember gcwr is a performance/warranty rating only. Question becomes, what performance are you looking at etc. Holding 60 in DOD vs OD vs Direct at 1800 rpm......pulling an X% grade with out stalling in 1st gear.
Marty

Yes it's a duramax with a 10 speed allison. According to their spec sheet it's actually 3.42. I went from a 33" tire to a 35" tire and it dropped my ratio to 3.22. About a 6% loss. I did some regearing research and I'm not sure a 6% difference is worth it?

SWG about 88% or 26,300 - What is SWG?

I think that trailer is light enough that if I were happy with the performance, I wouldn't bother.

This is sort of what I'm thinking, but I guess I'll just have to see how it performs.

One other question I have is, I currently have a B&W tow and stow that is rated for 1450 VTW and 14,500 trailer weight. I have to drive from Gilbert to Tucson to pick up the trailer and wondering if I can get by with this for the hour and a half drive back without permanently hurting my truck suspension? You know those trucks out there that seem to have perma-sag in the rear end...? I want to avoid that if I can.

I don't necessarily want to spend 3 hours at the dealer trying to install the ProPride in their parking lot.

As this appears to be your first time towing a “heavy” (relative term) trailer, all I can say is don’t sweat it. Seriously. Your hitch is fine (maybe a bit light if your fully loaded tongue weight goes up considerably) as long as it’s a 2.5” shank. If it’s a 2” + adapter, I’d still tow it home no problem, but long term, adapter sleeves raise hell with hitch receivers and pins.
Once you hit 70mph for about 5 min on I10 north and realize it tows fine, a lot of this becomes a moot point.
Gearing, brakes, etc, all are a non issue. You have a brand new trailer and the newest most capable 1 tons on the road. Pulling or stopping this trailer is not an issue whatsoever with any newer 1 ton diesel. You’ll probably want to run er in 7th or 8th gear on the flats though. Keep your rpms up. Less stress on the drivetrain internals.

One other thing to consider, I found out the hard way that the short tongue on our toyhauler and the short shank on the stinger I bought , don’t mix. And I’ve scratched the front cap with the trucks taillights in tight turns.