Question about Silverado 2500HD and Weight Distribution

ReferDog wrote:
Front end travel on the suspension is limted on most HD, take a look. So they don't want you jacking up the rear, or you will be bottoming out on the rubbers.

x2. unless the 2015 is different than previous (at least back to 2001) 2500/3500 the front suspension sits on or has maybe 1/16" clearance on the stiff bump stops. So... it is VERY difficult to get the front end BELOW original ride height. AND if you do you won't like the ride. bring the front back to or maybe 1/4" above unloaded ride height. the back end will drop but don't worry about that. It's the way it is. On my 2500, I have 1450 on the tongue and with the front back to stock height, the back drops about 1.5" below stock ride height. Has been just fine for ride and handling for 25K miles or so.

Front end travel on the suspension is limted on most HD, take a look. So they don't want you jacking up the rear, or you will be bottoming out on the rubbers.

BenK, point taken. I don't begin to think that because my truck has the Z71 package that it's way better than a truck that doesn't have it. All vehicle manufacturers come up with gimmicks and marketing schemes to make their vehicle sound better and to add $$$ to the price. Could I replace items with after market items that are a lot better? Sure I could, but I bought the truck to provide a better towing experience than what I had (F150 Ecoboost 1480 pounds of payload). Did I accomplish what I set out to do? Yes, and that's all I need. If I had unlimited money and I wanted to have the biggest baddest tow vehicle known to man to tow the best customized camper known to man I'm sure I could accomplish that but I'm just a working guy that likes to go camping. We all have to work within our means to enjoy this lifestyle and at the same time stay safe. Hopefully I've accomplished that.

Assume all true and accurate...then those very things also weigh more...therefore
reduce the available weight ratings for towing...

Most all GM trucks have the G80 locker option and comes with most option packages

Those shocks are better than OEM, but not as good (normally) as good after
market shocks. The GM magnetic fluid shocks (yours are NOT them)
are pretty good, but once they leak, they are EXPENSIVE to replace. As
there are no after market supplier for them When they first came
out...they were around $800/each and I'd rather get Koni's at a bit
lower price...but way better

Most of the stuff you mention has more marketing verbiage than specifications...

Frame mounted skid plates are the way to go, as the El Cheapo component mounted
skid plates are just that...not as good a d frame mounted on. Component mounted
will have the component's frame mounting points crack when hit hard enough

Appearance package...AKA 'looks' package

Nothing wrong with the stuff you like/love...but to an old time Gearhead/Wrench/Boy Racer...
this stuff is pure marketing verbiage...

Earlier there was a post about me mentioning that my new truck has the Z71 Off Road package and the poster hinted that I may have been boasting about it and he made fun of that. I took no offense but I see now the post has been removed. I assume by a mod. To make things clear, I wasn't boasting, I mentioned it because there are a few things the Z71 off road package adds that would have an effect on towing. More heavy duty suspension, 46mm twin-tube high-pressure gas-charged shocks, automatic locking rear differential,larger wheels and according to the dealer, the front axel is a little more heavy duty as well. Whether that is true or not, I don't know. My point was, the Z71 package does offer a few things that will affect towing ability and that's why I included it in my trucks description.

•Z71 Off-Road suspension
•46mm twin-tube high-pressure gas-charged shocks
•Skid Plate Package with a frame-mounted shield
•GM segment-exclusive automatic locking rear differential that provides added grip when you need it
•Available Z71 Appearance Package: 18" aluminum wheels, body-color mirrors and door handles, body-color grille with chrome insert, and Rancho® shocks

I pull a 7500lb TT with a 2014 2500HD using a ProPride, moved up from a 1500 last year.
Pulls without any issues at all.
The fender measurements are just a rule of thumb,if you will, to get an idea for "close enough." If you want accurate information take it to the CAT Scales and get the numbers. There should be no reason to have to "crank up the weight distribution as far as I can", usually a 6-8 inch rise on the upper jack housing should be more than adequate to transfer the weight.
But that's just my opinion
Tinbender

LarryJM wrote:

Ron Gratz wrote:


Don't worry about the rear end -- if you get the front end right, the rear end will take care of itself.

I agree, but just that statement alone conjures up all sorts of "visions" and some "nightmares" depending on which context you are thinking about not limiting it to just towing :B

That might make the "memorable quote" wall of fame :p

Larry

:E :E :E :E :B
Something tells me I should probably delete that one.:W
Barney

Ron Gratz wrote:


Don't worry about the rear end -- if you get the front end right, the rear end will take care of itself.

I agree, but just that statement alone conjures up all sorts of "visions" and some "nightmares" depending on which context you are thinking about not limiting it to just towing :B

That might make the "memorable quote" wall of fame :p

Larry

RobWNY wrote:
---I have adjusted the stinger to the correct height to hook up but I noticed when I get everything hooked up, the back of the truck only squats 1.5" in the rear and 1" in the front. My camper when loaded weighs in the neighborhood of 8,300 pounds. When I crank up the weight distribution as far as I can, I can't get the truck back to where it was before hooking up.---

I believe your Owners Manual will say that as long as the trailer weight is less than 18,000#, use of a WDH is optional.

But, it also says that if you do use a WDH, the WD bars should be adjusted to eliminate about 50% of the front-end rise.
However, I would not disagree with those who recommend returning the front to the unhitched height.

You should not attempt to make the front end lower than when unhitched.

Don't worry about the rear end -- if you get the front end right, the rear end will take care of itself.

Ron

Old school rule of thumb was even drop on the TV when finished dialing it in...no
longer

As the OEMs now have different suspensions among them and even within their own
model lines

So, I now say follow your glove box manual on how much to move off the TV's rear
and over to the TV's front axle

Best to understand the goal for the finished setup. Much of the advice
on these freebie forums addresses what worked for the adviser, but
out of context for anyone else, as that is all they needed to do to
dial it in. Know what your goal is and then do the dials/knobs/etc

The TV should have enough weight WD'd from the rear axle to the front axle, as
per the manual

The trailer tongue should be 12%-15% of the ACTUAL trailer weight

The trailer tongue should be level at it's highest pointing, or pointing slightly
down (my preference)

Of course within your TRUE ratings. Meaning that the OEMs used a 'curb' vehicle
to derive their ratings. Unless you have a 'curb' vehicle, then those ratings
do NOT apply to your TV.

Best to go out and weigh the whole setup, axle by axle, fully loaded. Then you
will know where you are in reference to your TRUE ratings.