Question regarding chimney near travel trailer

I wanted to cut down the tree. Wife didn't. So i cut back the branches as much as possible. If there's no spark then there shouldn't be any problems. I am npt sure what is proper size screen for the chimney. Its an Amerivent. They claim it has a spark arrestor. But i do like more opinions. Worse case scenario I'll cut down the tree.

I wonder how these Cabelas tents are working out...

Maybe the photo is an optical illusion, but I would more concerned about the tree branches than the trailer roof.

Good rule of thumb for wood stoves is to keep everything connected to the stove at least 1' away from any combustible materials.

That old Ashley was a well regarded wood stove in it's day. I know a few folks that used them, mainly as a "parlor stove" but it served to heat the whole house. It has a full tin enclosure around the firebox so will be safer to use than a bare cast iron fire box.

I would disassemble the chimney cover and add in a screen with appropriate sized openings (not window screen).

The junction between the porch and the trailer is going to be troublesome to seal against water intrusion. I'd probably try a piece of aluminum formed to fit and sealed down to the trailer roof but I have a siding brake so could experiment. If you are friends with a siding installer, maybe enlist his help to make the junction piece.

I'm guessing this temporary shelter is in a warm part of the US as I see no insulation. If you need to heat this trailer, I'd suggest to get some good skirting built around it for the Winter. Skirting makes a big difference for comfortability.

I appreciate all the replies. I didn't realize there were spark arrestors. But I did put in the stove that was given to us. I know its probably overkill. But I dont plan to burn big fires. Mainly for cooking and heating water. Here are a few photos of what I am doing. To cut costs and because I like to build it all, I placed the stove on cement backing board and covered that with galvanized flat stock. I put more flat stock on the nearby walls and left space at the bottom and top for convection. I can add more metal if need be. The ceiling support job isn't pretty. But its strong. I am not a fan of seamed stove pipe. But its all I could find. I did a test fire and all went great. Pipes didnt get real hot at all. I didnt snap the chimney all the way down because I wasnt sure if I needed to add another section of chimney to go up higher.

Is it me or does my chimney look like a spark arrestor? I would like to know. If it is not, what would you recommend I get to fix it? That spark arrestor photo in the previous post looks like a double layer with round holes, which look like it would be very effective.

Just for the record, I am very cautious. Personally. I hate wood stoves. lol. But due to the propane furnace and gasoline generator draining my wallet, its a necessity for now. And I am using metal in every place I can to block any potential fire hazard. I plan to remove the tarp since I suppose it would probably catch fire easily and don't wanna take any chances. Not sure where I could buy a fire retardant tarp or if it would even matter. But I am going to have to come up with an alternative to close the barrier between the porch roof and camper roof to keep water out. Which leads me to think I will have to use a cement or sealant and some kind of plastic. The way the metal is stick up in the air, the plastic would be shaded from any potential sparks.

This is all temporary. Next year I will move the camper out and build the other half of the building and use it!! Thanks.

Check out the Alaska Outdoors forum http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/ you’ve gotten some excellent information here and you’ll find a lot more good information about heating with wood.

Steve

Also note the house chimneys comes in two sizes where this unit would mount to top of the chimney. I forget what the two sizes are but when I went to get one of those chimney covers from LOWES mainly to keep birds from building nests in my chimney I had to come back home and find out which size I needed...

Roy Ken

If you're using a modern woodstove they reburn the exhaust before it heads up the chimney. Our stove is extremely efficient with no visible smoke once fully heated. Use a spark arrester and you should be fine. As said many areas require an arrester as ours does to prevent a forest fire. The spark arrester needs to be cleaned yearly with your chimney to remove soot and keep the woodstove at its peak efficiency.

I'd suggest to make sure the chimney from the wood stove is two feet (at least) higher than any roof surface. Use a spark arrestor on the chimney exit and burn only clean, dry wood. Your trailer is still going to absorb some smoke odor but don't be tempted to burn any construction debris like paste board, insulation, roofing materials, etc. I know a guy that tried to save money by burning all the debris and his remodeling addition stunk for years afterward.

Good luck on the temporary housing and your building project!

An RV rubber roof is quite similar to a house or commercial rubber roof; the materials are in some cases identical. A spark arrestor would be a very good idea.

If you go forward with the stove, please be extra careful in making sure it's a good setup on the porch with a proper fireproof pad and heat shielding and so forth. A travel trailer burns up much more quickly than a house in the event of a fire, and should the porch be on fire it's blocking the main exit from the travel trailer already so you'll likely be forced to use an emergency exit window. It could rapidly become disastrous or tragic. This would not be a place to cut any corners at all.

I might suggest looking into a pellet stove; they typically only need a small wall or ceiling mount vent, similar to a gas water heater, and are (at least around here) pretty economical to operate, and certainly cleaner and easier to tend than a traditional wood stove. I lived in a house with a wood pellet furnace for a year and was very impressed; it only required periodic filling of the hopper, a quick minute or two of scraping out soot from the burner pan each week, and emptying the ash bin twice during the heating season. The heat from a pellet stove or furnace is much more consistent than from a normal wood stove.