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photobug
Explorer
Oct 16, 2017

Questions about Cargo Trailers behind RV

About to go on an extended cross country road trip. It will be just me and the DW. We'll be driving our 1998 26' lazy daze class c. Rv runs well and only the usual trivial things that happen with rv's to deal with. The issue is last trip we went on I spend more time tripping over all the junk we seem to need to go anywhere. Under storage was full, under bunks, closets, over head bunk all stuffed, and still stuff was on the floor. This time not only are we going to be driving a lot longer, but also staying in the rv for up to 6 months when we arrive. Now I'm not a neat freak, but I do have foot problems that makes stepping on stuff or falling over stuff painful. My solution was to buy a small cargo trailer and put all the extra stuff we're not using at the moment in there. Wife's not thrilled about pulling another trailer since the last one rolled over and just about killed us. Another time different configuration. Anyways.

RV 26' 14.5k lbs max load, empty weight 11.9k lbs Tow weight from book 3.5k lbs. 4 prong flat pin light wires.

Trailer 2000 10x6x 6 wells cargo totewagon. new axle about 5 years ago. 15x5 wheels, getting new radial tires tomorrow.

Questions: Both units are fairly old, what areas should I inspect/concentrate to make sure the factory numbers still apply. There is some corrosion on the trailer frame, but didn't see any structural issues, just paint coming off. I'll be scraping off these areas and hitting the bare metal with some rustolim spray paint.

Not impressed with the way the tow hitch is welded onto the rv, would it be worth while to get someone to look at it and see where it could be beefed up a little?

Hitch ball mounts are a bit sloppy in the receiver. been looking at some of those quiet hitch type devices. Do they work and are they worth using or mostly a pain to work around?

Best way to secure the trailer when not attached? those hitch locks look interesting assuming they're not to cheaply made and come off with a crow bar. I can just see us leaving it at a campground to save our spot while we're exploring the area only to come back and have someone move it and take over our spot.

Suggestions on how to clean the fiberglass sky lights? There's some black spots on them that didn't come off when I washed it this morning.

With a line of screws along the side why would only one be corroded?

Anything else I should know about towing one of these? I've towed big travel trailers (until I wrecked the last one) don't want any issues because I was being ignorant.

23 Replies

  • We towed a single axle enclosed one trip behind a pickup and truck camper. Truck camper overhang required using a 2ft hitch extension placing the ball about ? 5 or 6 ft behind the rear axle. The trailer towed fine as long as it is not hitched nose high.
  • During his first two terms our darling governor vetoed most of the requests for new briefcases for state employees under the philosophy that the paperwork will only fill the available briefcases...less briefcases, less paper.

    Whatever you buy, you and DW will fill.
  • The most important thing you can do is to ensure the hitch on your tow vehicle is sound, solid, secure, and weighted correctly for the trailer you are towing. Second, is to make sure your trailer is hitched correctly. Fix anything wrong with the coupler if it needs it. Your hitch and hitch assembly is probably THE most important element.

    Edit:

    I did a Google search of your CLASS C and looked at some images. There is a considerable length of distance from the rear axle of your camper to the hitch. Even the slightest of movement from the stearing wheel will make the rear move considerably. I've not had experience with your rig, but say, you turn the stearing wheel and the front bumper moves to the right 1 inch. Because of the length of the overhang on the rear, the rear bumper may move 6 inches left (just an exagerated example). Now correct your stearing by turning slightly left, front bumper moves 1 inch left, but the rear moves 6 inches right. That movement shifted the hitch 12 inches from side to side (exagerated I know... bear with me). Now ..... attach a trailer, extending even a few inchdes farther, and the pivot point on the hitch ball, moving back and forth is going to really be exagerated on the tongue of the utility trailer. Now, your trailer is a single axle, and it's short. You are setting yourself up for sway and lots of rocky side-to-side movement. I strongly advise a very secure sway bar at the bare minimum to help prevent the trailer from wiggling back and forth.

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