Ready Brake 2013 Focus
the finished product. Three holes drilled the top hole hit the boot on steering column bottom hole came out in double wall metal middle hole was one used. Ready to go back to gather . An...
Forum Discussion
Well gang,
It's up to each individual to install the R/B in what ever fashion/place/area one decides on. Installing the exit of that cable "off center" is not a good practice. If you were to take a look at the install in an off center application, in a "Birds eye view" the distance between the attachment points, i.e. the attaching point in/on the exit cable and the actuator, will change as the coach and toad make turns.
If the link cable (the one that adjusts) is dead in line with the actuator, there's no change in length as the coach and the toad turn, either right or left. Now, there's not much change but, it's there. I've installed a few of the Ready Brake units and, while sometimes it's not easy to set that cable housing up so it's dead center of the front of the toad, I go through whatever it takes to get it there. I've made brackets, drilled through lower core supports, and more to get that cable to end up in the center and work correctly.
And, you want that link cable to also have no obstructions, (as in rubbing against anything from being at an incorrect angle or height. Now, again, anyone can install it as they please. There's just some considerations that "should" be looked at prior to the finished install. Below are some pics of our recent install of the R/B system in our 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab 4x4. Instead of the rather large bogus metal clamp set on the brake arm with cable permently attached, I installed a Pin in the brake arm. Then, I wrapped the cable around a screen door roller and clamped a cable ferrule tightly against that roller. Now, when it comes time to hook up for towing, the DW reaches under the floor mat and places the roller on the pin and puts the hitch pin through the end of the pin to secure it.
That way, the cable is not on the brake arm 24/7 and being actuated and prematurely wearing out the inside of that cable housing for nothing. The second modification I did was, on the link cable, R/B has you loop the cable back and forth and use cable clamps for adjustment. Not a very good system in my opinion. So, I changed it to a stainless steel, marine type turn buckle. Now, if and when that link cable is in need of adjustment, you simply remove two tiny hitch pins by hand, twist the turn buckle in the direction needed and, re-install the tiny hitch pins(hitch pins are for keeping the turn buckle from self turning while in transit).
These are mods to the system that I wanted are for myself. They have no effect on the operation of the system. It's just a lot cleaner and more efficient system. They do get out of adjustment every once in a while so, having the turn buckle is seriously easier to make the adjustment, (NO TOOLS NEEDED) if and when needed. If you like the way R/B instructs you to do the install, then by all means, have at it. Your choice. Good luck.
Scott
It's up to each individual to install the R/B in what ever fashion/place/area one decides on. Installing the exit of that cable "off center" is not a good practice. If you were to take a look at the install in an off center application, in a "Birds eye view" the distance between the attachment points, i.e. the attaching point in/on the exit cable and the actuator, will change as the coach and toad make turns.
If the link cable (the one that adjusts) is dead in line with the actuator, there's no change in length as the coach and the toad turn, either right or left. Now, there's not much change but, it's there. I've installed a few of the Ready Brake units and, while sometimes it's not easy to set that cable housing up so it's dead center of the front of the toad, I go through whatever it takes to get it there. I've made brackets, drilled through lower core supports, and more to get that cable to end up in the center and work correctly.
And, you want that link cable to also have no obstructions, (as in rubbing against anything from being at an incorrect angle or height. Now, again, anyone can install it as they please. There's just some considerations that "should" be looked at prior to the finished install. Below are some pics of our recent install of the R/B system in our 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab 4x4. Instead of the rather large bogus metal clamp set on the brake arm with cable permently attached, I installed a Pin in the brake arm. Then, I wrapped the cable around a screen door roller and clamped a cable ferrule tightly against that roller. Now, when it comes time to hook up for towing, the DW reaches under the floor mat and places the roller on the pin and puts the hitch pin through the end of the pin to secure it.
That way, the cable is not on the brake arm 24/7 and being actuated and prematurely wearing out the inside of that cable housing for nothing. The second modification I did was, on the link cable, R/B has you loop the cable back and forth and use cable clamps for adjustment. Not a very good system in my opinion. So, I changed it to a stainless steel, marine type turn buckle. Now, if and when that link cable is in need of adjustment, you simply remove two tiny hitch pins by hand, twist the turn buckle in the direction needed and, re-install the tiny hitch pins(hitch pins are for keeping the turn buckle from self turning while in transit).
These are mods to the system that I wanted are for myself. They have no effect on the operation of the system. It's just a lot cleaner and more efficient system. They do get out of adjustment every once in a while so, having the turn buckle is seriously easier to make the adjustment, (NO TOOLS NEEDED) if and when needed. If you like the way R/B instructs you to do the install, then by all means, have at it. Your choice. Good luck.
Scott
