Receiver

Easy

i keep bare metal prep out in the barn, apply it with s spray bottle by spritzing it on. Got my last gallon at Home depot.

Like referenced above it is phosphoric acid which converts iron oxide to iron phosphate.

All rust converters use Phosphoric Acid...buy at HD in the paint department as metal prep. I've had good results with just spraying surface rust like what the OP has with Fluid Film.

POR-15 might be an option but if it were me, I'd use a rattle-can or brush-on rust converter after brushing off loose paint and removing dirt & grease. Best would be to re & re the receiver of course.

Had a look under the trailer? You may or may not find it could do with some touch-up too. Our TT got delivered in the winter and the salt was not nice to some of the frame and various exposed metal. Need to get under there one day and will brush on some Tremclad (sold in Canada by Rustoleum).

How about this stuff is it good too?
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/rust-oleum-rust-dissolver-286749-293617/10936410-p?c3apidt=22903950849&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_8Gh5v221QIV1DyBCh3LOQ62EAYYASABEgLKE_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Grit dog wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:
If you take the receiver off and have it sandblasted, you will get the very best results. It may be no more trouble than working around things to sand and paint it.

Lol. How many times have you removed a rusty trailer hitch or any trailer hitch receiver?

To touch up a little rust?

OP, don't over complicate this. If you want to make it look better and possibly last longer, hit it with a wire brush or wire wheel. Blow it off, shoot some por15 or any other rust repellant on it or simply spray bomb a couple coats of black spray paint and save the rest of the hour you set aside for this to do something else.

Note, if you're in the salt belt and rust is an issue trailer receiveer tubes can and do rust more inside where you can't reach than outside where visible sometimes, so touch it up and move along. Save un bolting it from the truck until you need to replace it.

I was never too lazy to remove a few bolts. Doing a job half a$$ed is not something to bragg about. My suggestion will give the best results, yours, not so much.

I keep a can of gloss black RustOleum handy for touch ups. I'd give it a shot and go camping.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-12-oz-Black-Gloss-Protective-Enamel-Spray-Paint-6-Pack-7779830/202871790

Rust-Oleum makes something called a "rust reformer". Just spray on and when dry, just paint a new coating over it. Does not require any prep but a light brush to remove any loose particles.

Yes, it is your money...

$7 bucks per bottle, $20 bucks per quart, $70 bucks per gallon for the liquid stuff recommended on this thread...but from your pictures...the rot is underneath the existing protective coating...so you'll have to do more than just these liquid band-aids...as it will continue to rot from underneath that coating

Until you remove that coating down to bare metal. Think of that rot as cancer and will continue to rot until it is removed and the root cause ID'd...am guessing road salts, which is a galvanic action...maybe nicked it during setup/take-down

Note my sig and how long I keep my vehicles. They do rust and take care if it before getting out of hand. That is my savings on vehicles...keep them until either won't/can't fix them anymore

If me and wanting to NOT get a replacement...drive it to the local welding shop. Have them sandblast it down to bare metal (in my area, about $50 bucks for the whole receiver...but have my own sandblaster, so kinda sorta a freebie) and then either have them repaint or a DIY.

Since still on the vehicle, no powder coating (my preference for this app), suggest Aquapon, my fav paint-on metal coating (next is zinc rich with actual metal particles)...or you can shop local hardware stores for on sale spray can paint...which won't be nearly as good as Aquapon or zinc rich

MKDSK wrote:

BenK wrote:
Check out how the cost of a brand new, traditional design receiver costs...best of them runs $150-$200 bucks plus about an hour's labor to remove/install

Vs all of the work messing around with your old one...that will have a poorer protective coating than most of the new powder coated receivers

If I was to buy something new every time something was a little older I would be broke.

MKDSK wrote:

BarneyS wrote:

MKDSK wrote:
So what is better Rust Stopper or rust Kutter?

As far as I can tell, the Rust Stopper is simply a rust preventative and not a rust converter. You would want a product that will convert the existing rust into a harmless and protective coating. Rust-Kutter is one of those products.

There are others also. Look for a product that says it is a "Rust Converter". Personally, I would go for the Rust-Kutter since I know how well it works and it is readily available at any Tractor Supply store. You simply spray it on, let it sit to dry, and then paint right over it. You don't rinse it off or anything.
Barney

Will HinderRUST applied to it work?

From a quick search on the net...

There are 3 types of HinderRust. The R2.0 is a removable rust preventor (like the cosmoline that the military uses(ed) to cover weapons, metal parts, etc, for shipping or storage). It is a removable compound. It will may prevent rust from forming, but it is not a permanent solution.

S4.0 is a harder to remove but is still sort of like Cosmoline Plus. It is not a rust converter, but will protect as long as it covers the metal and is not removed through wear or weathering.

HV100 is their strongest compound. From the discription, it almost sounds like Undercoating. It does say that it will not completely harden over time. So how this will work I don't know.

What you want to get as stated by others, is a RUST CONVERTER. This stuff takes surface rust (which you have) and converts from Iron Oxide to Iron Phosphate or ferric tannate (depending on if the active ingredient is Phosphoric or Tannic Acid).

This will convert ANY rust present into an inert compound that can be painted over.

This is the site where it explains the different types of HinderRust <--This is NOT meant to endorse the product, just to offer it's various options.

As for the Rust converter, you can type Rust Converter into Google, and it will give you several different sites expounding on the various types of rust converters out there, as well as information on what it does.

I hope this helps clear up any questions...If not, I don't know what else to say.

Yes, you can use the HinderRust, but as it is not a permanently bonded coating to the metal, when it rubs off, it is going to expose the metal to oxidation again...But as NO coating on metal is permanent, that is a moot point.

MKDSK wrote:
Will HinderRUST applied to it work?

What does the product description say? There are literally dozens of products that all do the same thing. It varies from region to region, what products are available.

If the product claims to CONVERT rust on metal, then it is probably the right product.