Reese WD head clarification

Steve6l wrote:
Hey Guys thanks for both of your help

Measured channel iron (looks like a capital "I" cut in half) and it was 6"

So you need those two measurements from me to inform me with what shank I need, got it. To do that use level ground and level trailer, also for truck have truck unloaded?

Good deal on the channel iron. That helps eliminate the things to work through on tubing frames.

If you can tell us: (with the trailer on level ground and the trailer level)

1. Trailer by itself, Distance from ground surface up to the inside of the ball coupler, trailer level.

2. Truck by itself, Distance from ground surface up to the top inside of the 2 1/2" reciever pin box tube. The truck should have a level of stuff you are going to take camping in the truck bed when you do this. The weight will add a little squat to the truck.

Page D18 of this Reese PDF shows what we are trying to do, but it does not speak to the hi rise tow ball nor truck squat. Odds are high you only need the Reese 54976 2 1/2 shank which is listed as a 1 1/2" drop and 6 1/2" rise "but" want to check as you really do not want that other beastly one in the rise mode. Can't open the tail gate. We may use a trick of a 2" tall ball if it comes out to that. A 24" ball height trailer is semi common with your size camper.

http://www.reeseprod.com/content/downloads/catalogs/Cequent_2014_06_Weight_Distribution.pdf

That poses another question for me, how do you guys with your experience level your trailer? In your driveway/at the campground what's the best method of getting it level?

The ideal is, find a level hard surface to park the camper on. Take a level inside the camper and put it on the floor over the top of the axles. Raise/lower tongue jack until the level is level. Then go measure ball height. Do not use the A frame as a source of level as they are welded on up hill or down hill some times. Even the main frame and go up or down hill. You are trying to get a happy medium. What you are trying to do is find trailer level as a point of reference so you can tow the camper level going down the road.

Another question how did you prevent the carrige bolts from rotating was there a perfect square in the snap up brackets?

On my vintage snap ups and the orignal ones you linked, they have square punched holes. BUT your new heavy duty ones may not have square punched holes. Have to wait and see what you get. May have to use a hex bolt.

Pretty much need to figure out the shank I need, find an 1 1/4" raise 2 5-16 ball rated higher then my trailer gvw, then purchase my kit and ask for your experts advice on proper install?

Yes, this is correct. We are assuming you are doing the install. Ideally you do so you learn all about the adjustments and why you are adjusting.

I was quite nervous towing this beast of a trailer for me to the scale, have you guys experienced this without a straight line hitch? And when installing the hitch was ride quality and ease of towing significantly improved?

While towing a large camper with a 1 ton truck is not a mandate to always to use a weigght distrutbuion hitch, it for sure tows better and more stable with a WD hitch. I can say this, the truck will handle better with that large camper when using a WD hitch than without one. And yes that is my oppinion. The DC part is for sway control in case some day you get into a bad situation it can help prevent a sway event.

That said, the straightline is a good tool to help do a job. It will not solve all your towing issues. Tire pressures, proper trailer weight and balance, correct WD hitch setup, not overloading a component and then you the driver create the stable towing rig.

In my case, I would not want to tow my TT without the WD hitch even though I have the equipment to allow me too. Dang truck pulls and bobs around too much onces your spoiled with a good WD setup.

In time, this will become old hat and you will do well. With all those upgrades in your truck, now you will put them to use.

John