I lost the entire coroplast liner that enclosed my camper's underbelly this weekend. I think the root cause was from some axle work I had done two years previous. I noticed then that they didn't fully reattach the coroplast to the frame very well at the axles. I had always meant to button it up better but never got around to it.... I figured water spray could get up in there and weigh it down and eventually have it tear. Turns out that air alone must have done the job.While driving to the destination this weekend I was passed by a car that rolled their window down and gave me the signal that something was up. I pulled over and found about the third of the coroplast liner still attached to the very rear of the camper and dragging on the ground. The entirety of the rest of it was completely gone! Luckily it didn't tear any wiring out or propane lines. It did tear the handle off of my gray water dump valve. I had to screw a long wood screw in as a hack to get the tank dumped. So has anyone else replaced the entire liner before? Dealer or DIY project? Cost? Thanks.

I replaced about 1/3 of the Coroplast on our trailer. I used 4 x 8 sheets which I bought at a sign shop. Prices varied wildly, so shop around. The best price I found was about $16 per sheet. Stainless steel fender washers and hex-head screws worked well for attaching the Coroplast. I did have to add some structure (2 x 3's) in order to have something to screw into. Be sure to overlap joints so it won't catch the wind. Working around tanks and gas lines were the biggest headaches. You can't have a joint under a tank.I would also recommend adding insulation while it's open. I glued foamboard to the underside of the floor.

My bottom plastic came off 10 yrs ago and I never replaced it. I Zip tied all the wires up and added the plastic split wire guards. I have not had any problems with the trailer related to the absence of the sheeting.I guess that it has some purpose other than to keep dirt off of the black tank and frame but it does not stop pack rats or mice and does not prevent blow outs so I left it off.

NMDriver wrote:My bottom plastic came off 10 yrs ago and I never replaced it. I Zip tied all the wires up and added the plastic split wire guards. I have not had any problems with the trailer related to the absence of the sheeting.I guess that it has some purpose other than to keep dirt off of the black tank and frame but it does not stop pack rats or mice and does not prevent blow outs so I left it off.An added benefit of leaving it off is easy access to everything I would think. Dan

My thought for benefits was the claimed heated underbelly. Although I got under there and looked and didn't see any heater vent pointed down there.

On mine the heater runs in a metal channel under the floor. I always assumed that the heated underbelly was just radiant heat from the metal ductwork as opposed to an actual vent under the floor.

Replacing coroplast on entire camper underbelly

ewarnerusa
Nomad
Jun 20, 2017
Hammerboy wrote:
...An added benefit of leaving it off is easy access to everything I would think.

Dan

I have actually always wanted to rewire the main 12V connection from the power center to the batteries with fatter gauge. Then if I ever replace the WFCO converter with something more boondock-friendly I could minimize any voltage drop issues. But I thought removing the gazillion screws attaching the coroplast to drop it would be a chore. Now I have convenient access and I should take advantage and get that project done.
ewarnerusa
Nomad
Jun 20, 2017
4huskers wrote:
I replaced about half of it on our old trailer. Figure it kept road spray from getting up there ans soaking the underfloor.

This is my main worry and motivation for replacing it.

My furnace ducts also run in a center channel along the floor, but I can't see that channel from the bottom of the now-exposed belly. I'll look more closely though to satisfy my curiosity.
LarryJM
Explorer II
Jun 20, 2017
opnspaces wrote:
On mine the heater runs in a metal channel under the floor. I always assumed that the heated underbelly was just radiant heat from the metal ductwork as opposed to an actual vent under the floor.

Depending on where the ducts are they will provide SIGNIFICANT RADIANT heat to the underbelly area. I monitor my underbelly temp area with a remote thermometer and see this all the time.

Larry
4huskers
Explorer
Jun 20, 2017
I replaced about half of it on our old trailer. Figure it kept road spray from getting up there ans soaking the underfloor.
opnspaces
Navigator II
Jun 20, 2017
On mine the heater runs in a metal channel under the floor. I always assumed that the heated underbelly was just radiant heat from the metal ductwork as opposed to an actual vent under the floor.
ewarnerusa
Nomad
Jun 20, 2017
My thought for benefits was the claimed heated underbelly. Although I got under there and looked and didn't see any heater vent pointed down there.
Hammerboy
Explorer
Jun 20, 2017
NMDriver wrote:
My bottom plastic came off 10 yrs ago and I never replaced it. I Zip tied all the wires up and added the plastic split wire guards. I have not had any problems with the trailer related to the absence of the sheeting.

I guess that it has some purpose other than to keep dirt off of the black tank and frame but it does not stop pack rats or mice and does not prevent blow outs so I left it off.

An added benefit of leaving it off is easy access to everything I would think.

Dan
NMDriver
Explorer
Jun 20, 2017
My bottom plastic came off 10 yrs ago and I never replaced it. I Zip tied all the wires up and added the plastic split wire guards. I have not had any problems with the trailer related to the absence of the sheeting.

I guess that it has some purpose other than to keep dirt off of the black tank and frame but it does not stop pack rats or mice and does not prevent blow outs so I left it off.
Mortimer_Brewst
Explorer II
Jun 19, 2017
I replaced about 1/3 of the Coroplast on our trailer. I used 4 x 8 sheets which I bought at a sign shop. Prices varied wildly, so shop around. The best price I found was about $16 per sheet. Stainless steel fender washers and hex-head screws worked well for attaching the Coroplast. I did have to add some structure (2 x 3's) in order to have something to screw into. Be sure to overlap joints so it won't catch the wind. Working around tanks and gas lines were the biggest headaches. You can't have a joint under a tank.
I would also recommend adding insulation while it's open. I glued foamboard to the underside of the floor.

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Replacing coroplast on entire camper underbelly

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