stew47 wrote:
The more I read about shocks on the fifth wheel the more it makes sense. It sounds like it wouldn't help with the concrete roads but a good mod for sure. Where's best place to find more info on parts and what axles I have?
This may help, I have the same problem just on our TT. The road is the NYS Thruway concrete road coming towards the Lackawanna toll booth in western NY. That 5 miles of road lights my rig up every time I go over it.
I have the 4600 Blistens on the truck, I have the Trail-Air equalzier and I have Monroe gas shocks on the trailer. I only have the single rear wheels F350.
Basically, the concrete humps create a natural frequency that sets the thing off. If I slow to 50mph it stops, 55 is bad and 60 is real, real bad. In my case I know may rear overload springs are engaged all the time but I'm using a WD hitch too. All I can do is slow down and wait it out. Thank goodness it is only about 3 to 5 miles.
To doing shocks, yes by all means. And do the rubber equalizer too. See Mor-Rydes rubber equalizer. I have used the Dexter and the Trail-Air, and I would now pic the Mor-ryde or Dexter.
The combo of the shocks and the rubber equalizer do a lot of good. The equalizer upgrade helps on the hard bounce impacts and the shocks tame down the frame flexing oscillations after the hard impact bounce.
I have not looked into the Mor-Ryde Centerpoint system. For my situation, the shocks and the equalizer really helped and gald I did it.
Adding TT Shock Absorbers (Long/lots of pics)If you do not want to spring for the disk brakes, which is for sure superior, there is another option. Self adjusting brakes and a brake wiring upgrade. This will make the most out of electric drum brakes.
Dexter Self Adjusting Brakes (long W/pics and details)Independent Brake Wire Feed Upgrade Hope this helps
John