Round bars

ok, thanks Just looked odd to me

Chris

He has his chains hooked to the correct place on the snap-up brackets. You just cannot see the other part of the bracket because of the tilt of the bracket overcenter and the angle of the camera.
Barney

Yep, that hexagonal washer should have numbers on it. Those numbers should be the same on each side and will give you more or less tilt.

I am still pretty sure your snap up brackets are not right too. There should be a hook UNDER the square U shaped metal bar that your chain hooks to. That will give you more adjustment on your chains and make it easier to SNAP them up. I may be looking at it wrong but it should look something more like this

BarneyS wrote:

thehippie wrote:
Snip...the Reese WD hitch i have has this large hexagonal washer that inhibits any movement, thus preventing such angle or tilt. It looks like it is designed that way, but who knows.

That large washer is what you use to adjust the tilt of the head. Loosen the two large bolts, then tilt the head and rotate that large washer so one of the other surfaces touches the head. That will set the tilt. Now tighten up the two large bolts.

You need to go through the above process a couple of times or more with measuring and weighing between each process and following the process given in the sticky thread I mentioned earlier. When you get the adjustment where it should be then stop and go camping.
Barney

Thanks. i'll try that.

thehippie wrote:
Snip...the Reese WD hitch i have has this large hexagonal washer that inhibits any movement, thus preventing such angle or tilt. It looks like it is designed that way, but who knows.

That large washer is what you use to adjust the tilt of the head. Loosen the two large bolts, then tilt the head and rotate that large washer so one of the other surfaces touches the head. That will set the tilt. Now tighten up the two large bolts.

You need to go through the above process a couple of times or more with measuring and weighing between each process and following the process given in the sticky thread I mentioned earlier. When you get the adjustment where it should be then stop and go camping.
Barney

jmtandem wrote:

Using exactly the same WD hitch and round bars, it didn't evenly distribute on my current tow vehicle 2015 Ram 2500 Cummins tradesman longbed crewcab. The rear went down more than the front. I didn't bother much because my tow vehicle is already much much larger & powerful. But still.

With the big heavy Cummins up front and a truck designed to carry weight in the back, how much weight do you really want to redistribute? 1000 pounds tongue weight is nothing on a Ram 2500, not even close to payload ratings. The only thing I would double check is the stock receiver to be sure it can handle the weight of the tongue and it might be in your best interest to get an aftermarket receiver so you can tow w/o weight distribution should that work better for you. Adding 1000 or so pounds to the rear of the truck will actually made it handle better, not worse than stock. Weight distribution is to add back to the front axle a certain percentage of weight taken off by the tongue weight. With the diesel weight and with the stock unloaded front/rear weight bias favoring the front axle adding to the rear only makes thing better, not worse.

Thanks for the advise. I was thinking about that too but i read somewhere that if the trailer weighs more than half the truck weight then use the WD hitch with round bars or torsion bars. My trailer is 7,260 lbs. about the same weight as my Ram.

Using exactly the same WD hitch and round bars, it didn't evenly distribute on my current tow vehicle 2015 Ram 2500 Cummins tradesman longbed crewcab. The rear went down more than the front. I didn't bother much because my tow vehicle is already much much larger & powerful. But still.

With the big heavy Cummins up front and a truck designed to carry weight in the back, how much weight do you really want to redistribute? 1000 pounds tongue weight is nothing on a Ram 2500, not even close to payload ratings. The only thing I would double check is the stock receiver to be sure it can handle the weight of the tongue and it might be in your best interest to get an aftermarket receiver so you can tow w/o weight distribution should that work better for you. Adding 1000 or so pounds to the rear of the truck will actually made it handle better, not worse than stock. Weight distribution is to add back to the front axle a certain percentage of weight taken off by the tongue weight. With the diesel weight and with the stock unloaded front/rear weight bias favoring the front axle adding to the rear only makes thing better, not worse.

csamayfield55 wrote:
If it was me I would tip it back one notch on the adjuster. I like having a little extra wiggle room to take a link or let a link out depending on weight. The other thing I am seeing is I think you are using the snap up bracket wrong. It looks like you have your chain too high and are actually hooking it on the hook that you put your leverage bar on to snap it up. Is there a hook in the center of the bracket? That should be where the chain connects

Chris

the Reese WD hitch i have has this large hexagonal washer that inhibits any movement, thus preventing such angle or tilt. It looks like it is designed that way, but who knows.

myredracer wrote:
You need to start by measuring the front fender height of your TV before the trailer is hooked up to the WDH, then afterwards when it is hooked up and with the spring bars engaged. That is how you will know if enough weight is being transferred back onto the steer axle, not by judging what the spring bar angle is or by how much the bars are bent.

It does look like you need to tilt the head angle down a bit. How much will depend on measuring the front fender height.

A read of the WDH setup sticky is a must do...

Interestingly, when my tow vehicle was a 2005 V8 4Runner, the weight was distributed evenly as observed by the measurements of the front and rear depressions.

Using exactly the same WD hitch and round bars, it didn't evenly distribute on my current tow vehicle 2015 Ram 2500 Cummins tradesman longbed crewcab. The rear went down more than the front. I didn't bother much because my tow vehicle is already much much larger & powerful. But still.

You need to start by measuring the front fender height of your TV before the trailer is hooked up to the WDH, then afterwards when it is hooked up and with the spring bars engaged. That is how you will know if enough weight is being transferred back onto the steer axle, not by judging what the spring bar angle is or by how much the bars are bent.

It does look like you need to tilt the head angle down a bit. How much will depend on measuring the front fender height.

A read of the WDH setup sticky is a must do...