rv fridge
If one was to replace the fridge in there current rv with a residential fridge, what would have to be done to be able to cool it down before leaving on a trip? Generator, inverter?
Forum Discussion
dedmiston wrote:JRscooby wrote:
I would question your definition of "a lot of power". My absorption fridge works just fine on the excess power generated by the alternator. Compressor fridge is known to use less power.
I’m thinking of the dozens of threads I’ve seen here from people frustrated about the fact that their residential fridge drains their batteries during the day (if, and that’s a big if, they even have an inverter and can run it while they drive) and they wish their dealer had explained to them that they don’t have enough power to drive from Point A to Point B and that they can’t boondock without running their gen all night. It’s enough firsthand accounts of frustration to indicate that the residential fridges draw more power than most people are equipped with, at least not until they invest in a lot of upgrades.
I really don't have a dog in this fight. I can hook up to my trailer, plug in the light cord, and turn on the fridge, after the trailer has been setting long enough that inside the fridge is average summer temp. Drive a couple of hours, with only power from the alternator going to fridge. (Not any control circuit, but to the heating element) Couple of hours later, I can set up camper, remove bag of cool charcoal, put in food. Few minutes after I close the door, the inside temp reads below 40.
Now I know inverter takes power even when nothing plugged in is drawing power. And I know the bigger the inverter, the more power it takes under no load. And I know most install a inverter large enough to carry most of the camper loads. I wonder if the residential fridge/inverter would work longer on battery if used a inverter just big enough for fridge? Leave the big one off when not needed.
