Changed out my hitch receiver to a new Curt XD. The slots where safety chains connect are not allowing the safety chain snap hooks to hook up easily. The metal is thicker and distance around where snap hook needs to connect is larger. The hooks have to be fooled with and twisted to get them to snap on.Solutions:#1: purchase a larger snap hook (if it will fit my chain)#2: purchase a 3/4" shackle and connect to hitch; then attach my snap hooks to shacklesMy other issue is the chains are on the short side. They are attached by a rod that welded to frame (links run through rod).Are there extending chain links that are strong enough to use in this application?I was also thinking that solution #2 above may add a couple inches to the length seeing as snap hook does not connect directly to hitch.Thoughts/suggestions?Thanks

Almost ANY device used to connect two chains together or to connect a chain to an eye is going to be weaker than the chain. I would go with the shackle and upsize it on size. Use some wire to hold the shackle pin in place.

I believe my chain is 3/8"..... I was thinking about a 3/4" shackle; and yes seizing wire for pin.... Just like I do on all my boat anchors

Have you tried connecting the hooks in the slots from the bottom of the hitch rather than the top of the hitch. Generally easier that way.

Found a set of these quick links that my safety chains will fit into. 50 lb ft torque and red Locktite on fastener so won't unscrew. 5K working load, 27K breaking load.

BB_TX wrote:Have you tried connecting the hooks in the slots from the bottom of the hitch rather than the top of the hitch. Generally easier that way.Yes. Issue is hitch throat, where chains attach, is much larger than OEM Hitch, and my truck is an F-350.

Safety Chain extensions and snap hooks | Good Sam Community

12 Replies

mkirsch
Nomad II
Dec 04, 2018
If you can get them on and off with some maneuvering, that is the most secure thing you can do. At least you know that the chains aren't going to come unhooked on the road somewhere.

Definitely do not try to stretch a forged hook. If it doesn't break from you stretching it, it will in an unintended detachment.
Blazing_Zippers
Explorer II
Dec 03, 2018
A comment about the steel connecting rod welded to the frame--the one that runs through the chain links of the safety chain----they will break before the chain will.
During an "off road" excursion with truck and trailer (severe accident), the safety chains were left connected to the truck but the trailer ended up about 10 feet away. The steel rod was no where to be seen.
JIMNLIN
Explorer III
Dec 02, 2018
Baja Man wrote:
Thanks to all for their input. Decided to go with these.....

Hammer locks

Good choice. I use them on all my transport chain tie down equipment. Their actually stronger than the chain rating. I just bought a equalizer hitch for the wifes 1500 chevy and added a pair to lengthen the chains.
I frequent a couple of 411 websites. Having hauled wheeled equipment on flatdeck trailers it take a lot of chains/binders/coupling links/hooks/etc. They use some big Hammerlocks on the 1/2" and bigger chains.
Those 411 guys have a truck full of recovery equipment and I find it interesting at the different hook ups they do with cable and chains.
There are several brands of couplers that use the Hammerlock principle. Just make sure their a G80 or G100
George3037
Explorer
Dec 02, 2018
I use the quick links as posted by STB. Chain hooks snap in very easy and they are high strength rated. I couldn't snap the hooks in my factory class V hitch but no problem with the quick links now.
Baja_Man
Explorer
Dec 02, 2018
Thanks to all for their input. Decided to go with these.....

Hammer locks
BarneyS
Explorer III
Nov 25, 2018
You can purchase chain extensions here.
They are sold by Hensley for use with their WD hitch so I would assume they are of proper strength for that application.
Barney
Boomerweps
Explorer
Nov 25, 2018
I had the same problem with my factory receiver, the safety chain loops are too thick for my TT safety chain hooks. I just popped them on with a hammer when I took delivery and had a heckava time getting them off the first time at home ;(
Turns out the little wire retainer spring aggregates the problem, had to fix those after getting the hooks off. I ended up using shackles in the factory chain loops. After loosing one, I bought two replacements, along with spare pins for all the hitch connections, and painted them all day-glo yellow.
Unfortunately, shackle capacity choice is limited by the safety chain hook throat opening. I got as strong as I could fit on the chain hooks. I refuse to try to stretch the chain hooks as I am very concerned about weakening ithem.
Baja_Man
Explorer
Nov 25, 2018
BB_TX wrote:
Have you tried connecting the hooks in the slots from the bottom of the hitch rather than the top of the hitch. Generally easier that way.

Yes. Issue is hitch throat, where chains attach, is much larger than OEM Hitch, and my truck is an F-350.
STBRetired
Explorer
Nov 25, 2018
Found a set of these quick links that my safety chains will fit into. 50 lb ft torque and red Locktite on fastener so won't unscrew. 5K working load, 27K breaking load.
BB_TX
Nomad
Nov 25, 2018
Have you tried connecting the hooks in the slots from the bottom of the hitch rather than the top of the hitch. Generally easier that way.