I am looking for some help/advice on my WDH setup and adjustment.I went to the scale and these are my numbers:W/ WDHSteer:3380Drive: 3900Trailer: 6580W/O WDHSteer: 3180Drive : 4200trailer: 6500TruckSteer:3500Drive: 3140This was loaded for a 9 day trip.I have not measured the truck heights, but everything sits pretty level. Just looking at the numbers it seems as though I should adjust more weight onto the steer axle. I have an Equlizer WD. How do I adjust more weight to the front axle? Is this adding another washer or 2? There seems to be a lot of adjustment factors in the hitches and don't want to make things go the wrong way.I know I am at my limits, but want to make sure things are set up as best they can. I do increase air pressure to help as well.I used the towing planner chart, and I am right around 10% tongue weight. For information truck is a 2016 Chevy 1500. GAWL 3950, GVWR 7200. Trailer is a Keystone Passport with GVW 7200.

Here's a link to a calculator that takes all your numbers and tells you where you're at.You'll need to get a couple more numbers from your tire / loading sticker and your hitch receiver.Another calculator that may help with loading.

Were it me, I would adjust the hitch to restore the front axle weight to the same as it was before you hitched up. Don't worry about the rear axle of the truck. It will take care of itself. By doing that, your headlight aim will be fine and the steering components will be at their normal angles etc. You will probably find that the truck rides a bit better also. Some vehicle manufactures say to only restore 50% but I am one who feels that allows the headlights to aim too high so I use 100%.You say you have an Equalizer hitch. Is that the brand name Equal-i-zer or a generic equalizing hitch? If Equal-i-zer, the "L" brackets should be adjusted so the bars are level with the surface they rest on the brackets. You don't want the bars angled upwards because the bars will then only rub on the front edge of the L bracket. Same goes for the bars angled downward. They will then only rub on the rear surface of the L bracket. What you want is for the bars to rub flat on the bracket and adjust for that.To adjust the amount of weight transferred to the truck, you tilt the hitch head by adding or subtracting washers. Start with 5 and work your way up from there. In your case, I would add two more and then re-weigh your rig. The same adjustment process goes for a normal WD hitch. Once you find the correct chain link to use (usually 5 minimum) you adjust the weight transfer by tilting the hitch head. The reason for the 5 minimum chain links between the snap-ups and bars is to let the bars move back and forth when making turns. Too few links and the chains will crash into the brackets and/or pull the bracket forward or backward on the A frame. Also can bend the brackets if bar pull is strong enough. Hope this wordy explanation helps you or someone else a bit. :)Barney

http://towingplanner.com/ActualWeights/TravelTrailerCatScales/?w1sa=3380&w1da=3900&w1ta=6580&w2sa=3180&w2da=4200&w2ta=6500&w3sa=3500&w3da=3140&a=2Yes here is your data.Is this the truck and camper fully loaded and a full tank of fuel with all people and gear?You are within 50 lbs of your rear trucks axle weight.Something seems amiss here.You have a 740 lb TW @ 10.2%Can your drive axle rear truck alone weight of 3140 be correct?Example my 2006 silvy only has a 3750 rear axle rate. My full fuel and me in truck is 2300 lbs rear. 3750-2300= 1450 payload.Yours 3950-3140= 810 lb payload. Something wrong maybe.If its true , yes, get more weight up front by tilting head more. And reweigh...Problem is you will loose % on tongue. Make sure trailer is tilted down some towards the nose of trailer to truck.Post a pic of the truck trailer and WD assemble all hooked up.

Just a note. I added all washers to mine. I also have a 740lb TW @ 14% though. I think for you to restore that weight you may need them all.Your 120 lbs off but it depends.How many are in there now?This is them removing washers from the EQ hitch.. You certainly need to add.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ymcB2yeZr4sAlso what tires you running and whats the weight rating on the side wall?????Tires are the biggest issue at this point as you are at your axle rate. If the tires are p rated you must derate the side wall rating.Post those pecs, tire brand, max cold pressure , and weight rating on side wall..If they are 44 psi tires I would be running full psi to reduce heat. Adding air does not increase weight rating unless they are LT tires...You may want to consider a LT tire upgrade.

lawrosa wrote:Snip...If its true , yes, get more weight up front by tilting head more. And reweigh...Problem is you will loose % on tongue. Make sure trailer is tilted down some towards the nose of trailer to truck.Snip...He will not lose any of his tongue weight percentage. Adjusting the WD hitch DOES NOT change the tongue weight of the trailer and therefor does not change the tendency of the trailer to sway or not. All it does is change how that weight is distributed to the truck and trailer.I prefer my trailers to be level and not nose down. By doing that, the weight is even on all the trailers tires even though the axles are connected by what is commonly called an equalizer. It does not equalize the weight when the trailer is nose down or up. It just allows the axles to move somewhat independently of each other. If you cannot get it level, then the best option is for it to be a bit nose down. Never have it nose up as this contributes to the tendency to sway.Barney

Scale numbers and distribution setup | Good Sam Community

BarneyS
Explorer III
Mar 23, 2018
Were it me, I would adjust the hitch to restore the front axle weight to the same as it was before you hitched up. Don't worry about the rear axle of the truck. It will take care of itself.
By doing that, your headlight aim will be fine and the steering components will be at their normal angles etc. You will probably find that the truck rides a bit better also. Some vehicle manufactures say to only restore 50% but I am one who feels that allows the headlights to aim too high so I use 100%.

You say you have an Equalizer hitch. Is that the brand name Equal-i-zer or a generic equalizing hitch? If Equal-i-zer, the "L" brackets should be adjusted so the bars are level with the surface they rest on the brackets. You don't want the bars angled upwards because the bars will then only rub on the front edge of the L bracket. Same goes for the bars angled downward. They will then only rub on the rear surface of the L bracket. What you want is for the bars to rub flat on the bracket and adjust for that.

To adjust the amount of weight transferred to the truck, you tilt the hitch head by adding or subtracting washers. Start with 5 and work your way up from there. In your case, I would add two more and then re-weigh your rig.

The same adjustment process goes for a normal WD hitch. Once you find the correct chain link to use (usually 5 minimum) you adjust the weight transfer by tilting the hitch head. The reason for the 5 minimum chain links between the snap-ups and bars is to let the bars move back and forth when making turns. Too few links and the chains will crash into the brackets and/or pull the bracket forward or backward on the A frame. Also can bend the brackets if bar pull is strong enough.

Hope this wordy explanation helps you or someone else a bit. :)
Barney
handye9
Explorer II
Mar 23, 2018
Here's a link to a calculator that takes all your numbers and tells you where you're at.

You'll need to get a couple more numbers from your tire / loading sticker and your hitch receiver.

Another calculator that may help with loading.

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