Scale numbers and distribution setup
I am looking for some help/advice on my WDH setup and adjustment. I went to the scale and these are my numbers: W/ WDH Steer:3380 Drive: 3900 Trailer: 6580 W/O WDH Steer: 3180 Drive : 4200 tr...
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Were it me, I would adjust the hitch to restore the front axle weight to the same as it was before you hitched up. Don't worry about the rear axle of the truck. It will take care of itself.
By doing that, your headlight aim will be fine and the steering components will be at their normal angles etc. You will probably find that the truck rides a bit better also. Some vehicle manufactures say to only restore 50% but I am one who feels that allows the headlights to aim too high so I use 100%.
You say you have an Equalizer hitch. Is that the brand name Equal-i-zer or a generic equalizing hitch? If Equal-i-zer, the "L" brackets should be adjusted so the bars are level with the surface they rest on the brackets. You don't want the bars angled upwards because the bars will then only rub on the front edge of the L bracket. Same goes for the bars angled downward. They will then only rub on the rear surface of the L bracket. What you want is for the bars to rub flat on the bracket and adjust for that.
To adjust the amount of weight transferred to the truck, you tilt the hitch head by adding or subtracting washers. Start with 5 and work your way up from there. In your case, I would add two more and then re-weigh your rig.
The same adjustment process goes for a normal WD hitch. Once you find the correct chain link to use (usually 5 minimum) you adjust the weight transfer by tilting the hitch head. The reason for the 5 minimum chain links between the snap-ups and bars is to let the bars move back and forth when making turns. Too few links and the chains will crash into the brackets and/or pull the bracket forward or backward on the A frame. Also can bend the brackets if bar pull is strong enough.
Hope this wordy explanation helps you or someone else a bit. :)
Barney
By doing that, your headlight aim will be fine and the steering components will be at their normal angles etc. You will probably find that the truck rides a bit better also. Some vehicle manufactures say to only restore 50% but I am one who feels that allows the headlights to aim too high so I use 100%.
You say you have an Equalizer hitch. Is that the brand name Equal-i-zer or a generic equalizing hitch? If Equal-i-zer, the "L" brackets should be adjusted so the bars are level with the surface they rest on the brackets. You don't want the bars angled upwards because the bars will then only rub on the front edge of the L bracket. Same goes for the bars angled downward. They will then only rub on the rear surface of the L bracket. What you want is for the bars to rub flat on the bracket and adjust for that.
To adjust the amount of weight transferred to the truck, you tilt the hitch head by adding or subtracting washers. Start with 5 and work your way up from there. In your case, I would add two more and then re-weigh your rig.
The same adjustment process goes for a normal WD hitch. Once you find the correct chain link to use (usually 5 minimum) you adjust the weight transfer by tilting the hitch head. The reason for the 5 minimum chain links between the snap-ups and bars is to let the bars move back and forth when making turns. Too few links and the chains will crash into the brackets and/or pull the bracket forward or backward on the A frame. Also can bend the brackets if bar pull is strong enough.
Hope this wordy explanation helps you or someone else a bit. :)
Barney
