Shaky towing experience, please advise
Just returned from a recent trip, comprised of three legs, each much longer than our previous trips. Leg A: 275 miles, mostly on 4 lane divided highways through the Texas hill country. I ran 55-60...
Forum Discussion
Good you actually weighed it...that the tongue is not 10% as most
OEMs list based on its dry weight, and yours is13%...but...I think it would
help you to have it closer to 15% in this situation...but...the OP
has a regular half ton and adding weight to the rear axle would generally
put it over the RGAWR
From the pictures posted...looks a tiny bit nose high and also think
lowering it 'might' help. I've solved many similar issues by leveling
it to slightly nose down. The adjustment for this is to lower the
hitch head one hole at a time on the shank. Reset the spring bar
latch up to attain the TV's front end to the manual instructions
The heat tilt might have to be changed too.
Regular half ton's have 'P' series tires...AKA Passenger car class
and can be helped by moving up to the next higher class...'LT' or
light duty truck tires...but...must make sure the wheels are rated
for that higher class tire. Both in weight rating and PSI rating
This will help a lot, as the soft side walls of a 'P' series is
designed more for 'ride quality' than towing heavy.
20's, so lower aspect ratio tires, which is better for towing heavy,
but still 'P' series. Same size 'LT' class will be much stiffer
and less ride quality.
Hope that Husky spring bar to tongue bracket was NOT greased. I've
helped one guy who PM'd me and after a few PM cycles...found out
that he greased the spring bar to bracket saddle area because
of 'noise'. That is supposed to be left metal to metal WITHOUT
GREASE...as that friction is part of the sway control...along
with the hydraulic cylinders in the hitch head.
Back up a bit...most of the advice generally deals with adjustments
(turning the dials and knobs) without an over end goal, or the big
picture (60,000 foot view)
The setup is a whole system and a complex one to boot.
The final goal is to have the TV WD'd per the TV OEM's instructions.
Mainly with the orientation of the front axle and height/weight to
whatever the OEM says. IE...back to original height, weight, etc
The adjustments for this are: the spring bar ratings, how much you
WD to the TV. All relative to the trailers ACTUAL weight
The trailer tongue level or pointed down slightly (my preference)
Tongue weight (actual) in the 12%-15% range (my preference is closer
to that 15% number, actual weight)
Good luck and post back on how it goes
OEMs list based on its dry weight, and yours is13%...but...I think it would
help you to have it closer to 15% in this situation...but...the OP
has a regular half ton and adding weight to the rear axle would generally
put it over the RGAWR
From the pictures posted...looks a tiny bit nose high and also think
lowering it 'might' help. I've solved many similar issues by leveling
it to slightly nose down. The adjustment for this is to lower the
hitch head one hole at a time on the shank. Reset the spring bar
latch up to attain the TV's front end to the manual instructions
The heat tilt might have to be changed too.
Regular half ton's have 'P' series tires...AKA Passenger car class
and can be helped by moving up to the next higher class...'LT' or
light duty truck tires...but...must make sure the wheels are rated
for that higher class tire. Both in weight rating and PSI rating
This will help a lot, as the soft side walls of a 'P' series is
designed more for 'ride quality' than towing heavy.
20's, so lower aspect ratio tires, which is better for towing heavy,
but still 'P' series. Same size 'LT' class will be much stiffer
and less ride quality.
Hope that Husky spring bar to tongue bracket was NOT greased. I've
helped one guy who PM'd me and after a few PM cycles...found out
that he greased the spring bar to bracket saddle area because
of 'noise'. That is supposed to be left metal to metal WITHOUT
GREASE...as that friction is part of the sway control...along
with the hydraulic cylinders in the hitch head.
Back up a bit...most of the advice generally deals with adjustments
(turning the dials and knobs) without an over end goal, or the big
picture (60,000 foot view)
The setup is a whole system and a complex one to boot.
The final goal is to have the TV WD'd per the TV OEM's instructions.
Mainly with the orientation of the front axle and height/weight to
whatever the OEM says. IE...back to original height, weight, etc
The adjustments for this are: the spring bar ratings, how much you
WD to the TV. All relative to the trailers ACTUAL weight
The trailer tongue level or pointed down slightly (my preference)
Tongue weight (actual) in the 12%-15% range (my preference is closer
to that 15% number, actual weight)
Good luck and post back on how it goes
