Forum Discussion
- pianotunaNomad IIITwo solutions to poor power are autoformers and hybrid inverter/chargers.
- Cummins12V98Explorer IIII have used 30A running 15 and 13.5K AC's. No problem with Refrigerator on gas along with the water heater.
- ken56ExplorerYour RV is not your sticks and bricks home with a 200 amp service. Breakers are limiting devices for safety reasons. Can you draw more than 30 amps in a 30 amp rated coach? yes, for a little while until that breakker trips because of over heating. Your home and your trailer both have 110/120 volts entering them when plugged in. A 50 amp coach still has 110/120 volts entering the box. The difference is the distribution legs in the box each have 110/120 to them where the 30 mp coach has 110/120 powering both sides. Don't try fancy power gymnastics to "get more power". Manage your usage when you're a plugged into a 30 amp circuit. I never have any issues when my 50 amp coach is plugged into 30 amp shore power. You just have to understand you are limited in using the high wattage appliances at the same time.
- wa8yxmExplorer IIITo answer many questions:
There is a device that has two TT-30 plugs or one TT-30 and one 15 and a 50 amp outlet.. HOWEVER it is rare that you can use it. The Reason: Most parks have modern pedistal boxes if it's a 30 amp site the 20 amp outlet is a GFCI and these devices trip the GFCI. SOME sites the 30 amp outlet is also GFCI protected.
NOW.. I do have one park, now "Deceased" (got sold and no longer an RV park) where I could use two non-GFCI 30 amp outlets with this box and another park that has a couple sites with no GFCI's and it works there... One park that rents the boxes to 50 amp customers during their slow seacon and only lets you park on every other site so you can use two 30 amp outlets NOTE we are still less than 5 places it's useful that I have visited.
So how do I do 30 amp sites
I pulled the power lead to the Rear AC (Does not matter which one you pull) and ran it, using 12ga flexible cable. to a 20 amp plug in an exterior compartment I added.. I ran a new 12ga line from the breaker to a 15/20 amp outlet mounted in the same compartment.. On a 50 amp site such as the one I am now the plug goes in the socket and the factory wiring is basically "Restored"
On a 30 amp site I pull the plug add a 12ga Extension cord and the Rear A/C is isolated from the rest of the "house" Oh I also added a 15/20 amp outlet to the Load side of the above inside because I usually use electric heat and >.... well I don't need heat and A/C at the same time. - DrewEExplorer II
cavie wrote:
gbopp wrote:
I've never seen this type adapter. If only one male end was plugged in wouldn't the other one be hot?
the two plugs are not connected.
The two hot wires are not directly connected together, but each connect to either of the two hot connections on the 50A connector. The neutrals are all connected together (which is why GFCIs will trip when this gets plugged into them), and similarly the grounds are also connected together.
If there's a 240V load in the RV--which is not a particularly common situation--one hot would be live with power that goes through that load from the other when only one was connected. - BB_TXNomad
way2roll wrote:
I am scratching my head as to what it's actually for. In a decade of camping all over I have never had the need to even ask if such a thing exists. Is the theory to provide a 50A coach with power when you only have 30 and 15 at a pedestal? In my rudimentary knowledge based on the way 30a and 15a is supplied being very different to how 50a is supplied I don't see how it would work. It's like adding 2 oranges together to make a basketball. Sorry, I don't get it.
There are campgrounds that still only have 30 amp and 20 amp service. And if you have ever stayed at one in the south in the summer you know how limiting 30 amp on a 50 amp rig is when running your A/C. You can’t run much else. So the idea is to get you an extra 20 amps of service and maybe not trip the park breaker as often. But unless the park has non GFCI breakers that adapter will not work. - cavieExplorer
gbopp wrote:
I've never seen this type adapter. If only one male end was plugged in wouldn't the other one be hot?
the two plugs are not connected. - Big_KatunaExplorer IIWhat DOES work if you want more than 30A is to add an aux recep that has a dedicated cord.
My power comes in under the bed so I added a recep there and used a good ext cord.
Wifey can use it for her hair dryer or plug the electric tea pot in. DownTheAvenue wrote:
BB_TX wrote:
Chris Bryant wrote:
They are near worthless, as they will not work if the 15 amp outlet is GFI protected, which they all are required to be.
This answer is correct. Newer codes require GFCI outlets. And this device will not work with a GFCI since the common neutral almost guarantees the currents thru the two separate hot outlets will not balance with the neutrals back thru the respective outlet neutrals.
Might work in an older campground that has not been upgraded to GFCI.
YUP! This is correct!
The above 3 answers are correct. I have one and from experience I can tell you that it hasn't worked anywhere that I have tried it, in multiple campgrounds. In fact, if you want it, PM me and I will let you have it for a good price.- Cummins12V98Explorer III
way2roll wrote:
I am scratching my head as to what it's actually for. In a decade of camping all over I have never had the need to even ask if such a thing exists. Is the theory to provide a 50A coach with power when you only have 30 and 15 at a pedestal? In my rudimentary knowledge based on the way 30a and 15a is supplied being very different to how 50a is supplied I don't see how it would work. It's like adding 2 oranges together to make a basketball. Sorry, I don't get it.
Some parks charge for 50A and if you only want 30A they lockout the 50. Those that like to beat the system will use these for a few more amps.
They also get a few more if at a 30A ONLY pedestal.
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