Short Bed Ext. Cab vs Long Bed Four Door

rhagfo wrote:

svt440 wrote:
Hey everyone. I have a 30' fifth wheel that weighs in around 8400lbs dry. Currently towing it with a 2003 2500HD Silverado Duramax. Truck is an extended cab, short bed (the shortest truck you can get aside from a two door short bed). I felt it get a little squirmy a few times at 65mph that made me nervous enough to back off the gas. Did it a couple times in a couple of hours. One thought I've had, is buying a newer four door, long bed, 3500 srw. My thoughts are, with the longer wheel base and the heavier suspension, I will be over trucked (at least for an 8500-9000lb setup) and not feel like I'm the minor like I do in my current truck. I know a dually would most likely eliminate that possibility all together (I see these things with the hammer down running 70+mph on the freeway with tri-axle fifth wheels!) but I'm really preferring a srw and given the fact that I have a lighter fifth wheel, I feel like a 3500 srw should be more than enough truck.

Question is, will I notice much difference between the combination of a greater wheel base, and the heavier suspension, or will it not change much? I know the HD series trucks are similar to a 1 ton, (or so I read), so I'm wondering if my only gain in this situation will be the longer wheel base. Any thoughts or experience? <- preferred! Thanks guys!

Bedlam wrote:
I would look at the following:
1. Actual pin weight verses actual loaded trailer weight
2. Verify your tow vehicle is leveled under load with sufficient front axle weight
3. Verify the trailer is level or slightly nose down when hitched
4. Run your rear trucks tires at maximum PSI
5. Allow your overloads to take some of the load if you use air bags for leveling

I agree with most of what Bedlam states, but will add a bit of personal experience.

Under Bedlam's #2, make sure your pin is over the rear axle, with a short bed some move the hitch back and put the pin slightly behind the axle and unload the front axle.

I do disagree with Bedlam's #4, my 5er is heaver than yours and I run my rear tires at 70 psi (265/75-16E 3,415# ea.) 70 psi gives plenty of capacity with 5,500# on the rear axle. Max air pressure and not near max load you will be over inflated and riding on the center of the tread only. You might try the check or tape test across the tread to check best inflation.

So to the personal experience, we have a 2001 RAM 2500 CTD Quad Cab Long bed with Camper Package, so do have stronger springs, and the 265/75-16E tires. I would assume that you have at least 245/75-16E tires.
When our current 5er presented itself and we needed to move on it, I had just identified that the lower ball joints on our TV were worn. They were not at the point of failure, but noticeably worn. Well we needed to pull the new 5er 250 miles home, and I had a couple of lane changes where I got a noticeable wiggle that was uncomfortable. Once I replaced the ball joints the next week, the 5er has been a dream to tow. The only additional enhancement to the suspension has been a full set of Bilstein 5100 shocks.

I would suggest you have your front end checked out.

Just as a point of reference, our 5er is 9,820# dry and a 12,360 GVWR, towed at about 11,000#.

More interesting things to think about. Thank you! I just had it in a shop to be aligned and they commented on a driver side lower ball joint being bad. I took it to another shop (because (no offense to young mechanics) it was a young kid who said it was bad and I just put Moog ball joints in 4000 miles ago) and the other shop said they were fine. This is a more reputable shop with more experienced mechanics. They said a wheel bearing has a little play, but isnt of any concern yet. Maybe the kid was on to something?