Small cordless drill/screwdriver rec for stabilizers?

Lubricant makes things worse, it causes road debris to stick in the threads.

Ptfe (dry) lubricant has proven ineffective.

I'm subjected to noisy diesels, get them to quiet down and I'll do the same.

I have an older 14v DeWalt that found its way to the RV after I upgraded to their lithium units a number of years ago. It stays in the RV all the time and now doesn’t get used much since the new rig has auto leveling

GordonThree wrote:
Here in the rust belt, my stabs need an impact wrench to go up or down.

Sorry about the noise. Just think of it as a deleted diesel cranking over a few times.

You might try some lubricant on those jacks, instead of subjected everyone else to your noise.

midnightsadie wrote:
X2 use a impact drill not a reg drill bit drill.

PLEASE DO NOT use an impact drill. They are incredibly loud and annoying and disturb the entire campground. They are complete overkill for a stabilizer jack.

Here in the rust belt, my stabs need an impact wrench to go up or down.

Sorry about the noise. Just think of it as a deleted diesel cranking over a few times.

PawPaw_n_Gram wrote:
Those type drills are going to work fine to raise and lower the stabilizers.

However, I would caution you that most drills are not designed to do crank down the final half inch. Many of today’s drills have a clutch designed to avoid stalling the drill. You will need something in the Dewalt/ Makita 20v plus range if you want to avoid having that clutch break/ burn out.

Some people use an impact drill for that job to avoid damaging a standard drill. It will work great but will not make any friends in the campground if you arrive late and/ or leave early.

I have added stabilizers right behind my rear wheels to get some weight off the suspension. I use my Craftsman 19.2v drill to lower the stabilizers until it touches the ground then I use my automobile 4-way lug wrench for the final tightening. To leave, I use the four way to break the tension on the stabilizer, then the Craftsman to bring them up to the travel position.

Most of the hand cranks that come with stabilizers are cr***, a standard 4 way has a 3/4 inch socket which fits the stabilizer and is so much easier to use.

I agree. I hate to hear those impact wrenches in the morning. After all, I am not camping on Pit Road.

I use my 24volt DeWalt Hammer drill, with the hammer turned off. and yes. that last half inch is no problem. In fact. I have to be careful not to lower them too far.

will it last? Well it is 18 years old. So I'm gonna say... YEP.

X2 use a impact drill not a reg drill bit drill.

Those type drills are going to work fine to raise and lower the stabilizers.

However, I would caution you that most drills are not designed to do crank down the final half inch. Many of today’s drills have a clutch designed to avoid stalling the drill. You will need something in the Dewalt/ Makita 20v plus range if you want to avoid having that clutch break/ burn out.

Some people use an impact drill for that job to avoid damaging a standard drill. It will work great but will not make any friends in the campground if you arrive late and/ or leave early.

I have added stabilizers right behind my rear wheels to get some weight off the suspension. I use my Craftsman 19.2v drill to lower the stabilizers until it touches the ground then I use my automobile 4-way lug wrench for the final tightening. To leave, I use the four way to break the tension on the stabilizer, then the Craftsman to bring them up to the travel position.

Most of the hand cranks that come with stabilizers are cr***, a standard 4 way has a 3/4 inch socket which fits the stabilizer and is so much easier to use.

I use a Ryobi 18v One+ 1/2" impact driver. I don't have to remember to take it because it lives in the TT. Note that this is NOT a hammer drill. Impact and hammer are completely different.

I use a small Ridgid 12 volt lithium ion drill that's rated at just 120 in/lbs of torque but it runs my stabs up/down just fine. Any of the current crop of similar drills would do the same.