Opinions will have the OP or anyone in like situation...ask 10 folks and get 11 opinions (some say answers)...
First, decide if you believe in the OEM ratings & ratings system...or not
If not, then do whatever and know the consequences of that risk management decision (AKA gambling)
If yes, then dig out the OEM specifications for 'YOUR' TV and then do the simple math
Simple math formula is: GCWR >= TV actual weight + Trailer actual weight + WD Hitch system weight. Actual weight means to the pavement FULLY LOADED ready to go camping
GCWR is a fairly new rating metric and not many understand, nor believe in it...yet
GCWR is around TV Curb Weight (AKA stripper model) + MTWR (Max Tow Weight Rating provided by the OEM...based on a curb/stripper model with NO options other than the 'Tow Option', full fluids (some only half capacity) and one 150 lb driver
All a guessing game (gambling) until you fully load up your TV ready to go camping and WEIGH it. Axle by Axle
Have seen newbies come along with many spread sheets. Typically 3. One shows over the rating, other close or at the rating and the one they prefer...just under the ratings...
The reason the diff ratio, even with the new era close ratio trannies, is that the higher numeric provides more torque to the tires in any gear. Part of the regulatory agency required tests...one where the whole setup at maximum rated stops on the maximum condition (incline, ambient, altitude, etc) and is able to get it going again...not just once...but many times...