Hello Everyone,We purchased our 34' fifth wheel this spring and am trying to figure out how to eliminate or reduce the amount of jiggling inside our unit.Right now I have the Winfield stabilizers on the front landing gear, factory power stabilizers in the far rear, and use a BAL wheel chock in between the wheels. I cant really notice it when I'm walking around but when I am sitting and my wife is walking it is quite noticeable.My thought is it's a long way between the front landing gear and the rear stabilizers (which are more for side to side motion vs. carrying weight)So I'm wondering if I install a pair of scissor jacks behind the wheels like where a self leveling might have them that might help take out the bounce or jiggleThanksDan

Hammerboy wrote:how to eliminate or reduce the amount of jiggling inside our unit.Remove the springs and wheels from the rig. Put it on cinder blocks and you won't have the problem any more.Just kidding.Much of the movement in a rig is because the rig is designed to move on the springs and tires while it travels down the road. The only way to eliminate that is to get the weight off the springs and tires.If you look at Class A, Class C and high end trailer leveling systems - they all take a lot of weight off the suspension. The most rock solid rigs I've ever seen were Class A with airbag suspension, airbags empty and levelers taking almost all the weight off the tires.Your rig moves in three directions when traveling or when parked. Side to side, up and down and front to back. Your suspension allows that movement.Steady fast helps greatly to reduce the movement, along with the other items you already have.The best thing we've done with our 36 foot TT is add a couple scissor jacks to lift the frame right behind the rear axle, and I use a solid pyramid screw jack under the front corners to hold most of that weight.We also deploy the Lippert stabilizers and use the X-Chocks.Another big reducer is to put plastic leveler blocks under the folded out stairs. The weight of a person stepping on that bottom step puts a lot of twisting pressure on the suspension. Having that weight supported by the plastic blocks stops that movement.

Ours is 36 ft long and we have the hydraulic jacks on front and scissor jacks on back and we have JT Strongarms on both front and back. It's not completely move-free, but it's much, much better than before the JTs.

I installed JT Strongarm stabilizers on ours. Has 2 struts mounted to each front jack as well as to one to each rear stabilizer. Takes out almost all the movement.

Good morning. We had a 40' fifth wheel for a few years that only had the front landing gear and rear stabilizers. It was horrible for movement. We then used the x chokes for the wheels and the front 3 leg stand under the hitch. People say the stand doesn't help but it did a good amount with us. We have a 10 year old and a 8 year old boy and girl. The rear of the camper was a bunk house. You could feel them move in the mornings when they got up. So then we tried what they call slide out stabilizers. Which simply go under your slide outs and you just snug them up to help. Those made a world of difference. Once we put them up most of the movement wasn't there. We put them under the main slide and one under each bunk slide. If you do it right you don't have to worry about them hurting the slide mechanism or pushing it out of alignment. If we were staying at a place longer than 2 days we would put them out. It we stayed longer than a week we would adjust them to account for things settling. We had that camper for 2.5 years and never had an issue using them. THey helped trumendously with movement. We let them go with the old camper when we got the new one and think we may end up getting them again

Stabilizing a Fifth wheel | Good Sam Community

BB_TX
Nomad
Sep 10, 2016
I installed JT Strongarm stabilizers on ours. Has 2 struts mounted to each front jack as well as to one to each rear stabilizer. Takes out almost all the movement.
Merrykalia
Explorer
Sep 10, 2016
Ours is 36 ft long and we have the hydraulic jacks on front and scissor jacks on back and we have JT Strongarms on both front and back. It's not completely move-free, but it's much, much better than before the JTs.
PawPaw_n_Gram
Explorer
Sep 10, 2016
Hammerboy wrote:
how to eliminate or reduce the amount of jiggling inside our unit.

Remove the springs and wheels from the rig. Put it on cinder blocks and you won't have the problem any more.

Just kidding.

Much of the movement in a rig is because the rig is designed to move on the springs and tires while it travels down the road. The only way to eliminate that is to get the weight off the springs and tires.

If you look at Class A, Class C and high end trailer leveling systems - they all take a lot of weight off the suspension. The most rock solid rigs I've ever seen were Class A with airbag suspension, airbags empty and levelers taking almost all the weight off the tires.

Your rig moves in three directions when traveling or when parked. Side to side, up and down and front to back. Your suspension allows that movement.

Steady fast helps greatly to reduce the movement, along with the other items you already have.

The best thing we've done with our 36 foot TT is add a couple scissor jacks to lift the frame right behind the rear axle, and I use a solid pyramid screw jack under the front corners to hold most of that weight.

We also deploy the Lippert stabilizers and use the X-Chocks.

Another big reducer is to put plastic leveler blocks under the folded out stairs. The weight of a person stepping on that bottom step puts a lot of twisting pressure on the suspension. Having that weight supported by the plastic blocks stops that movement.
Mopar_madman
Explorer
Sep 10, 2016
Steadyfast.

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