I'm new to towing and connected the trailer to my tow vehicle and plugged the cable in. Apparently it was long enough to work itself to where it was dragging on the ground, wearing through all the wiring. Of course it was in 5:00 traffic around Washington DC on a Friday afternoon. As a temporary fix, I cut the bad part out of the cable and used 14 gauge wire, connectors and electrical tape to redo the wiring to get back on the road before me and my dogs melted in the heat. Back home now, I will need to make a permanent repair. The cable runs into the underbelly of the trailer and disappears. Do I have to open up the underbelly of the trailer to find where the end of the cable is attached and replace the entire cable or can I create a waterproof connection at the break and if so, how would be the best way to do it? With a plug to plug connection?Finally, what is the best way to route the cable so it does not happen again? Thank you,Carolyn

I would install a terminal strip aft of the worn spot, mounted on the frame and replace the cable from there to the 7 pin connector. (TV)

Ours came loose and drug the ground while we were getting underway on vacation 3 years ago. We got a new connected and rewired from the break to the 7-pin connector. It's still working.

I would replace the entire cord it will only be as good as the weakest link when you least expect it there will be an issue such as no lights at night checking just before leaving. Whatever you decide take your time and do the best job you can.

if you splice it use the heat shrink type connectors. Keeps moisture out

I had this happen once on my Snowmobile trailer. Some butt connectors and electrical tape and she was back on the road again. That was 13 years ago and its still going strong.

The road ate my cable ;-( | Good Sam Community

19 Replies

zman-az
Explorer
May 24, 2013
naturist wrote:
The real trick in routing it lies in having it long enough to reach when turned fully both ways, but too short to get near the ground.

Bingo,

My Dodge 2500 has the connector to the left and to far away from the hitch, it should be as close as possible to the receiver. This requires more cable when I make a right hand turn. If cable is not long enough it can pull right out when making the turn.

If you have 7 pin connector it should spring load shut on the vehicle and lock the connection in place. If you do not push it in all the way the lock on the cover will not hook up with the connector.

As far as repair I found the best way to repair is with solder and heat shrink. With this method water will not be an issue and you can splice in where ever you want as long as its easy to get to with a solder iron.
Tiggs
Explorer
May 24, 2013
I saw the junction boxes and plan on using one, thanks!

I think I may have overheated the TV's brakes as it was starting to pull to the left on braking, which made me realize I had a problem. Luckily, by the time I got the splicing done (and yes, my hands were shaking too, it was very nerve racking), the brakes had time to cool and all seemed OK once I got on the road again. I am taking it in for state inspection and will have them give the brakes a good look at on all four wheels just to make sure I didn't warp something.

Carolyn
humblerb
Explorer
May 24, 2013
We use a lock that has about a 6" shank on it when securing the hitch connection.
After hooking up, before I close the lock, I loop the wiring harness through the lock. I leave a little in front of the lock and a little behind.
That gives me extra cable for turning, but keeps it off the ground on straight runs.
mkirsch
Nomad II
May 24, 2013
You want a weatherproof "junction box" not a terminal strip. Look them up on etrailer.com
camperforlife
Explorer
May 24, 2013
Carolyn, consider yourself lucky. Once upon a time I did the same thing with a brand new trailer. I was on the interstate bringing it home and it frayed the wiring enough to short and lock up the brakes. Oh yea, I was in the left lane passing a slower vehicle when it locked up both axles. I sat on the side of the interstate trying to splice the wires so I could move while the trucks kept flying by shaking the truck, trailer and my nerves. I took it right back to the dealer and they replaced the pigtail free of charge but.... It put flat spots on all 4 tires and they had to be replaced.
Tiggs
Explorer
May 23, 2013
Thanks, guys! You've given me some great options. I appreciate your taking the time to help me out.

Carolyn
Tachdriver
Explorer
May 22, 2013
If I may put my .02 cents worth here.

Once you have this repaired and replaced it may be a good idea to figure out some sort of strain relief cord to ensure that if the cable ever came out of the socket again that it won't drag. It can be as temporary as a bungee cord.
pjs1660
Explorer
May 22, 2013
I run with mine below the frame but resting on the hitch bars
falconman
Explorer
May 21, 2013
Do a search on "trailer wiring junction box", ' it makes the connection much easier. Check the E-trailer website for one source.
old_guy
Explorer
May 21, 2013
I would not use a tie wrap, it will bind up and pull out again if you do.