Tire Balance Beads ?

Lynnmor wrote:
Since trailer drums or hubs are not balanced from the factory and the tires may be considerably out of balance, how would one guess the proper amount of beads to put in a tire? For example; I have had drums out of balance by 5.5 oz. and tires a similar amount. Depending on the orientation of the tire, I would need something between 1 and 15 ounces to bring it into balance, and then the balancing process would need to start all over again after each stop. Makes no sense to me. I actually balance the entire assembly and leave the gimmicks to others.

Nope, drums or hubs being out of balance have little effect compared to tires out of balance. It's called moment of inertia. Small diameter = small faction of the moment of inertia compared to the same weight at a large diameter.

NMDriver2 wrote:
Link after reading this link and some others, I will not be using them. While they seem to reduce vibration they reduce mileage by adding weight. If my tires were vibrating and I could not get a rim weight balance then maybe I would try the airsoft beads.

5 ounces per tire is enough to affect your mileage...?

I can only see in my minds eye, what happens to the Equal that I use and you know what, the results speak for themselves. Front end aligned, shocks are good, all bushings and other parts in the suspension are good, Equal added as recommended by Mfg, ride is smooth, tires wear evenly and I'm happy.

Not much else you can ask for.

I've used them for about 5 years now and I have no complaints. Tires are worn very evenly. Can't prove they work, but seems like cheap insurance and less headache. 2nd set of tires on the same trailer with them in and they've been great.

Optimistic Paranoid wrote:
I've been thinking about running Dyna Beads in my tires. Wondering if anyone here is using them in their tires? And if so, how they like them?

Apparently, you can either run a large amount of them, in lieu of regular wheel weights, or balance the tire normally and add a smaller amount of beads to help maintain the balance as the tire wears. I think I'm leaning towards the later.

Well I really don't think we have a concessus here.

So do I not balance and see if they need to be balanced - the old tires have no weights on them Now. - 14 years smooth as silk.

Replace and see - then have balanced if needed - Adding Beads later not a Big Issue?

Order Valve stems when you order beads.

As the theory is science then the beads should really make little difference as to Brand used?

Fleet truckers use them so............makes me feel like I should?

New tires shop cannot balance them in small town so -...................

Questions - Questions ...............Questions?????????????????????

What is the decision?

Help out with real life on eight new 295 80R 22.5's New Michelins -

More on the tire story latter.............


What does the Group Think?

I've been using DynaBeads on my trailer tires for a number of years and have had perfect results.

My approach is to first get the tires balanced when buying them new. Then, when I get the new tires home I bleed off the air and remove the valve stems so I can insert the proper amount of DynaBeads according to the tire size. It takes about five ounces for my trailer tires, maybe six or eight ounces for my larger truck tires. Then I replace the valve stems, air up the tires and forget about them until the next tire change.

If I have a flat, I put a plug in the tire while it's still on the rim. I've never had any problems with the beads clumping around the sticky plug or anything else. The tires I have plugged have been as balanced as ever. Ten minutes for inserting the plug, a couple of minutes for adding the air, and I'm back "on the road again" singing along with Willie.

When I'm ready for new tires, I slice open the old tires at the sidewall, remove the DynaBeads and reuse them for the next set of new tires. I have found that the "used" DynaBeads are always in great shape after many miles and years of use. They are made of a ceramic material that's hardy, corrosion proof and do not absorb moisture from wet air pumped into the tires.

One time when I returned from buying new mud-grip tires for my Jeep I found one of the brand new, newly installed weights had already fallen off. Rather than return to the tire store, I simply placed the proper amount of DynaBeads in my tires and found no problems with vibrations from any of the four corners.

So, I like them, in case you're wondering. :-)

NMDriver2 wrote:
Link after reading this link and some others, I will not be using them. While they seem to reduce vibration they reduce mileage by adding weight. If my tires were vibrating and I could not get a rim weight balance then maybe I would try the airsoft beads.

That article is proof that holding an engineering degree doesn’t mean you know a darn thing about physics as it pertains to rotating mass, because Jason’s explanation of how balancing beads work is physically impossible.

In my opinion, the vast majority of the perceived “failures” of ANY type of dynamic balancing system is due to a physical defect of the tire or wheel. It doesn’t matter if we’re talking about beads, powder, or Centramatics. They all are using the same physics.

If the wheel is bent or has excessive runout, or the tire has a manufacturing defect, the tire/wheel assembly will vibrate. No dynamic balancing system can correct physical defects. Fixed weights can make a tire/wheel assembly with MINOR defects run smoother, but you will see irregular wear patterns of the tire tread. Also, dynamic balancing is not appropriate for low aspect ratio tires.

Most tire busters don’t understand dynamic balancing either, and don’t take the necessary time and effort to check both the tire and wheel for defects BEFORE putting the beads or powder inside the tire. The wheel should be checked for roundness and runout before the tire is ever put on it. Then the tire/wheel assembly should be checked for roundness and runout again. If the tire and wheel can not be made true by adjusting the tires position on the wheel, either the tire or wheel is defective and dynamic balancing should not be used. If the assembly is straight and true, you can choose to use fixed weights to get an initial balance, and beads or powder to account for changes as the tire wears.

Once the beads or powder are inside the tire, that tire/wheel assembly can never be spin balanced again without removing the beads or powder FIRST. That’s why it needs to be done correctly right from the start.

Oh by the way, ANYTHING you add to a tire/wheel to correct an imbalance condition adds weight. Lead rim weights add weight, airsoft beads add weight, Equal powder add weight. Even if you could balance your tires with feathers it would take the same amount of weight as any other dynamic balancing media. It will typically take MORE lead rim weight to correct an imbalance condition than any dynamic balance media because the lead weights are closer to the center of the rotating mass.

It’s the old “Which weighs more, a pound of feathers or a pound of lead?” conundrum.

:):)

We have used the Centramatics for over 20,000 miles now. Never had to rotate tires, always balanced. When parked for an extended time the tires get a bit flat and it takes them a mile or so to smooth out. By then, the Centramatics have done their job as well. Since they stay on the chassis, putting on different tires do not require any changes.

They do cost more than beads. The cost savings over the life of a few sets of tires will likely come close to paying for them. The convenience of not worrying about tire balance is priceless.

DrewE, We had the Centramatic balance system on the “steer” tires of our “big” truck, years ago. They seemed to work well, ride was good, and tire life was very good!

Considered them for the rv’s, just never did it!

free radical wrote:
Have you guys ever tried these?

http://www.centramatic.com/balancers.rhtml

I have a set on my class C motorhome. They seem to work well, as far as I can tell, and are well-made. Centramatic has been around for many years and has a pretty good reputation. Beads work on the same principle and are a good bit less expensive if you're getting tires at the same time and so will have them off the rims anyway, but may not be cheaper if you need to pay someone to dismount the tires to put the beads in.

I do find that garages and tire shops don't seem to understand that the holes in the Centramatic rings for the dually rear wheels are supposed to line up with the valve stem for the inner wheel, which means I have had to spend some quality time with a jack and lug wrench to adjust things so I can check the tire pressure after getting work done a few times.

Edit: removed a stray extra letter 'z'