Tire/wheel change on the road

rhagfo wrote:

Durb wrote:
My 3500 lug nut spec is 140 ft-lbs. Nuts are easy to remove if torqued correctly to begin with. I use a Proto 6014 250 ft-lb torque wrench which is long so I use it to break the nuts and retorque correctly. Tire shops almost always over torque the fastener. Best when you get home from the shop is to loosen the fasteners and tighten correcty so you won't have issues on the road.

Sorry, I didn't bother to look up your suggested items.

I would never use a torque wrench to loosen a fastener I could think of no better way to mess up the calibration of the wrench!
I carry a 24” breaker bar, but also have a pneumatic impact wrench along with a VIAIR on board air with a 2.5 gallon tank.

Torque wrench mentioned is +/- 3% clockwise and +/- 6% counterclockwise, full range. Set the wrench to 250 ft-lbs and apply torque counterclockwise. If the wrench clicks (which it wont if the lug nuts were torqued correctly) then try something else. No stress to the wrench. Whats more, once the wrench clicks it functions as a breaker bar so you can apply more torque. This particular wrench will go until a tooth on the ratchet wheel breaks and do no additional damage to the wrench nor affect calibration. This point is at 386 ft-lbs. The wrench meets federal specs and will go 30,000 cycles at full scale without calibration drift.